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Crocheted Christmas Bauble Free Pattern

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My last post was for a simple crocheted Christmas bauble for 6cm plain or striped bauble with some beads or stars added to them.  This pattern is for a 6cm Christmas bauble that has a simple pattern to it.  This bauble uses surface crochet to finish it, if you’ve never surface crochet before I’ve included a link to a you tube video to help you work out how to do it. I promise it’s simple if I can master it you can too.

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Supplies

6 pack 6cm (3 inch) polystyrene (styrofoam) balls, I bought mine from The Range in the UK, in the craft section. Walmart sell similar in the US.

Stylecraft Classic Cotton in various shades one 100g ball will make many baubles. You can purchase this yarn at love Crochet click HERE .

I also used Twilleys fingerling yarn for some of the rows, you can find this on Love Crochet click HERE .

3.5mm hook (US size E4)

Ribbon for hanging

Tapestry needle for finishing

Pattern Notes:-  Chain 3 in each row counts as a stitch. Pull your magic ring tight before you insert your polystyrene ball.  You may need to add an extra row dependent on how much of the fingerling yarn you use because its not as thick as the Stylecraft Cotton. You can either add the extra row after row 5, or you can do two rows of double crochet at tow 6, measure the cup on your ball to decide which one will work for you. Cast off each row and join your new colour in another stitch to get an even finish where you can’t see your joins.

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

2trctog – 2 treble crochet together

Special Stitches 

2trctog – yarn over insert your hook into the stitch to be worked, yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over insert the hook into the same stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through three loops.

Click HERE for a you tube video on how to surface crochet.

Click HERE for the chart to do the conversion of stitches to US terms.

Pattern

Make two of the following.

Start with a magic circle

Row 1: (Colour A) Ch 3, 11 trc’s, sl st in to the 3rd chain of the starting ch 3 cast off.

Row 2: (Colour B joined in any stitch) Ch 1, dc in the same st, ch 1, dc in each st around. join with a sl st in the starting ch 1, cast off.

Row 3: (Colour C joined in any ch 1 space) *ch1 dc in the same st. ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc in the next st*, repeat * to * around join with a sl st in the starting ch 1, cast off.

Row 4: (Colour D joined in any ch 1 space) Ch2 (counts as the first trc) 1 trc in the same st, *Ch 1, 2trctog in the ch 1 space* repeat * to * around. cast off

Row 5: (Colour E joined in the space between any 2trctog) Repeat row 4 inserting each 2trctog in the space between each 2trtog on the previous row, cast off

Optional Row 6: Colour F If you have used the sparkly fingerling yarn for any of the previous rows you can add another row 5 hear in another colour or you can add two row 6’s in the same colour.

Row 6: (7 if you’ve added an extra row): (Colour F, G if you’ve added an extra row 5. If you add two row 6’s use the same colour. Use the same colour in this round for both halves of your bauble) dc in each st around sl st to join in the first dc, cast off.

Finishing

Take your two halves of your bauble.

You will have lots of tails as you’ve cast off between each colour. Make sure the cast off’s are pulled tight to stop them opening up.  You don’t need to weave in all those ends just trim them so they are no more than 2.5 cm (1 inch) long, they can be a little shorter.  Insert the polystyrene (Styrofoam) ball into one half of your bauble, place the other on top.  Don’t worry if its a bit loose or tight it will even out as you join.  Using your tapestry needle and yarn the same colour as row 6 join with a whip stitch. Cast off weave in the end.

Row 8: (Colour G, H if you’ve added an extra row). Cast on on top of the joining stitches between each halve of your bauble.  Surface crochet around.  Cast off and weave in the ends.

Add some ribbon to your bauble and its ready to hang on your tree.

 

Blue Baubles Pin

Copyright 2017. Please note this post contains affiliate links.  Please refer to the Terms for more information.

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Free Pattern Crochet Baby Bear Snuggly

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I have been inspired by the unicorn amigurumi see my previous blog post HERE, to make something from scratch.  I had the perfect excuse one of my work colleagues became a parent of a little boy over the Easter Holidays so I just had to make the cutest sleeping teddy snuggly for the new arrival.

Not quite as complex as the unicorn but a great way to start designing my own amigurumi.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free and to keep forever please take a look at my shop click HERE.

Supplies

The wool used can be purchased from Love Crochet click HERE 

I 50g ball Stylecraft Classic Cotton Sky Blue (3667) Colour A

1 50g ball Stylecraft Classic Cotton Nocturne (3669) Colour B

1 50g ball Stylecraft Classic Cotton Ivory (3665) Colour C

4mm (US size G6) crochet hook

Stitch marker

dress making pins for securing teddy parts before attaching

Toy stuffing for the head and arms

Tapestry needle for embroidering and finishing

Gauge 10cm x 10cm = 9 rows x 16 trebles

Finished size 34cm x 34cm

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

ch = chain

dc =  double crochet

trc = treble crochet

sl st = slip stitch

sts = stitches

yo = yarn over

Special stitches

2 dctog = 2 double crochet together. Insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch yo, pull through, insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch yo, pull through, you and pull through all three loops on the hook.

Pattern

Teddy head – make 1

Colour A throughout

Start with a magic ring

Row 1: 8 dc in the magic ring, pull closed but DO NOT join with a slip stitch. (8sts)

At the start of each of the following rows place your stitch marker in the first stitch.

Row 2: 2dc in each stitch, place a stitch marker in the first stitch. (16sts)

Row 3:   *1 dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the next stitch* repeat * to * to the end. (24 sts) Count your stitches!

Row 4:  *1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st* repeat *to* to the end. (32 sts)

Row 5: 1 dc around (32 sts)

Row 6- 8: repeat row 5.

Row 9: *1 dc in the next two stitches, 2 dctog * repeat *to* to the end. (24 sts)

Row 10: * 1 dc in the next stitch, 2 dctog*, repeat *to* to the end (16 sts)

Stuff with your fibre filling

Row 11: 1 dc around (16sts)

Row 12: 2dctog around (8sts)

add more filling, the head needs to be quite firm so keep filling until it just gives with a squeeze.

Row 13: 2dctog around (4sts) leave a long tail to close and attach the head when assembling the teddy bear.

Nose – make 1

Colour C throughout

Start with a magic circle

Row 1: 6 dc in the magic circle, pull to close DO NOT slip stitch to join.

At the start of each of the following rows place your stitch marker in the first stitch.

Row 2: 2dc in each stitch around (12 sts)

Row 3:  *1 dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the next stitch* repeat * to * around cast off leave a long tail for attaching when assembling the teddy bear.

Arms – make 2

Start with a magic circle

Row 1: Colour C 6 dc in the magic circle, pull to close DO NOT slip stitch to join.

At the start of each of the following rows place your stitch marker in the first stitch.

Row 2: 2dc in each stitch around (12 sts)

Row 3 – 7: 1 dc in each stitch around (12 sts)

Row 8 : change colour to colour A, 1dc in each stitch around (12 sts)

Row 9: 4 dc 2 dctog, 4 dc 2 dctog (10sts)

Row 10 – 14: 1 dc in each stitch around, lightly stuff the arm at the end of this row.  Do not over stuff you want the arm to be slightly flat at the top.

Row 15: 2 dctog around (5sts) cast off leaving a long tail for assembling the bear.

Ears – make 2

Start with a magic circle

Row 1: Colour A 6 dc in the magic circle, pull to close DO NOT slip stitch to join. (6sts)

At the start of each of the following rows place your stitch marker in the first stitch.

Row 2: 2 dc in each stitch around (12 sts)

Row 3: 1 dc in the next 9 stitches, cast off leave a long tail for attaching the ears. (9sts)

Body – make 1

Start with a magic circle

Row 1:  Colour C, ch 3, counts as 1 trc throughout. 2 trc, ch 2,* 4 trc, ch 2* repeat * to * twice more, 1 trc, change colour to colour A. (16 trc with four ch 2 corners)

Row 2: In colour A, ch 3, 1 trc in the next 4 sts, *1 trc, ch 2, 1  trc in the ch 2 space, 1trc in the next 4 trc,* repeat *to* twice more, 1 trc change to colour B.

Row 3: In colour B, ch 3, 1trc in the next 4 sts, *1 trc, ch 2, 1 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 6 trc*, repeat *to* twice more, 1trc, ch 2, 1 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the last st, change to colour C.

Row 4: In colour C, ch 3, 1 trc in the next 5 sts,* 1trc, ch 2, 1 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 8 sts*, repeat  to * twice more, 1 trc, ch 2, 1 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 2 sts, change to colour A.

Row 5: In colour A, ch 3, 1 trc in the next 10 sts,* 2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 10 sts* repeat * to * twice more, 2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 3 sts, change to colour B.

Row 6: In colour B, ch 3 1 trc in the next 8 sts, *2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next  14 sts*, repeat * to * twice more, 2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in the ch 2 space, 1 trc in the next 5 sts, change to colour c.

Rows 7 – 15: repeat row 6 increasing each row with the 2 trc, ch 2, 2 trc in each corner, change colour for each row.  Cast off  and weave in the ends for the body of the bear.

Finishing and assembly

To assemble the bear

Attach the nose to the face of the bear, using a little stuffing underneath to assist the nose with standing out a little.

Pin each ear on to the bear checking positioning from all sides before stitching them to the head.

Using colour B embroider the nose and sleeping eyes on the bear.

Attach the head to the center of the body, you can choose the way the head faces I’ve chosen to offset it toward the corners.

Attach each arm in line with the ears at the end of row 1 of the main body.

Weave in all your ends and you are finished.

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Sleeping Teddy Snuggly

Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

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One Caron Cake Crochet Scarf Free Pattern

Green Shoots – a one Caron Cake crochet pattern

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I have had a bit of an obsession with self stripping yarns of late and as a result I’ve been busy designing to combine them with new stitches I’ve learnt.  I have designed made and gifted this beautiful scarf that’s perfect for all seasons and has interest because of it’s unusual but very effective stitch design. It’s great over a coat on a chilly winter day or just as a shoulder wrap for cool summer evenings.

Once you get the hang of the pattern it’s very straightforward and quick to make.  At one caron cake it’s perfect for that ball of wool you purchases because you loved the colours but have never worked out what to use it for. You can find Caron Cake Yarn at Love Crafts HERE.

If you love this pattern please Pin Me!

Supplies

  • 1 x Caron Cake I used colour Pistachio 17020, 383 yards or 350m
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in your ends, Scissors
  • 5mm hook (US H/8)

Gauge

8 rows x 17 stitches = 10cm x 10cm

Special Stitches

There are no special stitches

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • dc = double crochet
  • trc = treble crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • st = stitich

Click HERE to find a helpful guide to converting UK terms to US

Pattern Notes

This scarf is worked by turning at the end of each row.  The pattern is worked over 4 rows, repeating rows 2 to 5 throughout.  Rows 2 and 4 are similar but have slight differences, as do rows 3 and 5, it is therefore important to follow the pattern throughout so stop and check you are still following it regularly and that the pattern is forming correctly, taking note of the arches at the ends of the rows.

I highly recommend you create a swatch to get the feel for the pattern and to check your gauge.   

Pattern

Row 1: This will be the wrong side of the scarf. Chain 48, 1 dc into the 14th chain from the hook, *5 ch, skip 4 ch, 1 trc into the next ch**, 5ch skip 4 ch, 1 dc into the next ch; repeat three more times from * ending the last repeat at **, turn.  

Row 2: Chain 1, 1 dc in to the first trc, *6dc into the next ch 5 arch, 1 dc into the next dc, 3dc into the beginning of the next 5ch arch, work a ‘back treble’  [ch 4, the without turning your work, skip the 6 previous dc and work a sl st into the previous dc, now working forwards 5dc in the ch 4 arch you’ve just created], 3 dc into the remaining part of the 5ch arch**, 1 dc into the next trc; repeat three more times from * ending the last repeat at **, 1dc in the next ch, turn.

Row 3: Chain 1, 1 dc into the first stitch, * ch 5, 1 trc into the 3rd st of the 5dc back treble, ch 5, 1 dc into the dc over the trc of the previous row; repeat 3 more times from * ending the last repeat in the last dc, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, 1dc into the first st, 3 dc into the beginning of the next ch 5 arch, turn ch 2, skip 3 previous dc, work 1 trc into the first dc, ch 1, turn, 1dc into the next trc, 2dc into the ch 2 arch, 3dc into the remaining part of the ch 5 arch, * 1dc into the next trc, 6 dc into the next ch 5 arch, 1 dc into the next dc **, 3dc into the being in of the ch 5 arch, ‘back treble’  [ch 4, the without turning your work, skip the 6 previous dc and work a sl st into the previous dc, now working forwards 5dc in the ch 4 arch you’ve just created], 3 dc into the remining part of the ch 5 arch, repeat 3 more times more  from * ending the last repeat at ** ch 5, (working backwards) skip 3 previous dc’s, sl st back into the next dc, 3 dc working in the normal direction into the beginning of ch 5 arch, turn.

Row 5: :   Ch 8, * 1 dc into the dc over the trc of the previous row, ch 5 **, 1 trc in the third of the 5dc of the next ‘back treble’, ch 5; repeat 3 more times from * ending the last repeat at **, 1 trc into the last dc, skip the turning ch, turn.

Repeat rows 2 – 5, 28 times until you have 112 rows or until the piece measures 140 cm long. Cast off and weave in your ends.

Border

Start on the top right of the right side of the scarf, or the short end on the right, right side facing you.  

Row 1: In the first stitch of the last row, Ch 4 counts as a dc, ch 2, 1dc in the same space, first corner made. * 5 dc in the ch 5 space, 1 dc in the next trc*, repeat * to * to the last but one stitch, 1dc, ch 2, 1dc in the last space.  Rotate your work to work the side of the scarf.

*1dc in side of each row, where the row ends with a half arch 3dc in the treble space* repeat * to * to the end, turn your work so you are working in the back of the starting row, 1dc, ch 2, 1dc in the first stitch.

*5 dc in each ch 5 space 1 dc in the next trc * repeat to the last st, 1dc, ch 2, 1dc in the last stitch, turn your work so you are working in the right side of the scarf.

*1dc in the side of each row, where the row ends with a half arch 3 dc in the treble space* repeat * to * to the end, sl st in to the second chain of the starting chain, do not cast off.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1dc in the chain 2 space of row 1,1dc in the next 4 sts,*  ch 4, skip 2 st,1 dc in the next st * repeat * to * until you have 4 sts remaining on the row, 1 dc in the last 4 sts,. 1dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the ch 2 space. 1dc in the next 4 stitches, *ch 4 skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the next st * repeat * to * until you have 4 sts remaining, 1 dc in the last 4 sts, cast off weave in your ends.

To finish weave in your ends, wash and dry the scarf flat.  

Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

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Free Crochet Pattern One skein Linen Stitch Beanie

It’s been some time since I last posted, whilst I’ve been away I’ve been learning more about crochet and have been improving my skills so that I can share more great patterns for you too make too. Whilst I’ve been learning I’ve become a bit obsessed with self stripping yarns and a bit of an obsession with Linen stitch too . So what better thing to make than something that combines the two into a swift to make perfect gift for the holiday season. The pattern is set out in Toddler, Teen/small adult and Adult large/ men. They all need just one skein of either Caron Cup Cake yarn or Knit and Purl pom hat yarn. Both come with a perfectly sized pom pom to add to your finished masterpiece.

Note this is a tight fitting beanie and not a slouchy beanie.

If you prefer a pattern to print and keep forever you can find a paid for version of this pattern over in my Shop click HERE to find it.

Supplies

Yarn Caron Cup Cake Candy Buttons (see below) double knit (light -3) 223 metres – this can be purchased from Love Crafts click here to find it.

Or

Yarn Knit and Purl Pom Hat Yarn Mellow (shown above) double knit (light – 3) 223 metres

4mm crochet hook (US G-6)

Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Ribbon to attach to the pom pom

Scissors

Finished size; Small Adult, crown width 6.5 inches, hat length top to edge is 7 inches.

Special Stitches

1 dc, 1 ch = 1 LS (Linen Stitch)

Abbreviations

Ch = chain

dc = double crochet

ls = linen stitch (see special stitches above)

sl st = Slip Stitch

sp = space

Gauge

10cm x 10cm = 21 rows x 21 stitches

Linen stitch is a 2-row repeat, the first row starts with a double crochet the second row starts with a chain 2 that counts as one linen stitch (1 dc, 1 ch). Always use a stitch marker to keep your repeat of these two rows throughout.

Pattern

Start with a magic circle, leave a tail at least 2 inches long for weaving in at the end. Alternatively start with ch 3, sl st into the first ch,

Row 1: ch1, 4 ls in the magic circle or in the chain 3 loop (insert your st marker in the top of first dc or ch 2 in each row as you progress), sl st in the dc to join  (8 st)

Row 2: Ch 1,*2 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 2 ls in the ch1 sp* repeat *to* to the end, ch 1 sl st in to the starting ch1, (16 st)

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls) miss the first dc *2 ls in the ch1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp* repeat *to* to the last dc, miss it and sl st in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2 to join. (24 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 2ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (32 sts)

Row 5:  Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls), miss the first dc, *1 ls in the next ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat * to * to the end  miss the last dc, sl st to join in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2. (32 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 2ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (40 sts)

Row 7: *Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls) miss the first dc,1 ls in the ch1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 space, miss the next dc 2ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat *to* replacing the staring ch 2 with 1 ls to the last dc, miss it and sl st in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2 to join. (48 sts)

Rows 8: Ch 1, 1 ls in the same st, *miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat * to * to the end  sl st to join in the starting dc. (48 sts)

Row 9: *Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls) miss the first dc,1 ls in the ch1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 space, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, mis the next dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat *to* replacing the staring ch 2 with 1 ls to the last dc, miss it and sl st in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2 to join. (56 sts)

(Child age 3 – 10 yrs) Row 10: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 1ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (64 sts)

Row 11: Repeat row 5 (64 sts) measures 15cm across (6 inches) across

Row 12: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 1ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (70 sts)

Row 13: *Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls) miss the first dc,1 ls in the ch1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 space, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp,  miss the next dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat *to* replacing the staring ch 2 with 1 ls to the last dc, miss it and sl st in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2 to join. (78 sts)

Row 14: Repeat row 8 (78 sts)

(Teen/Small Adult) Row 15: *Ch 2 (counts as 1 ls) miss the first dc,1 ls in the ch1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch 1 space, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp, , miss the next dc, 1 ls in the ch 1 sp,  miss the next dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp*, repeat *to* replacing the staring ch 2 with 1 ls to the last dc, 1 ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2 to join. (86 sts) measures 16.5 cm (6.5 inches) across.

Row 16: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 1 ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (98 sts)

Row 17: Repeat row 5 (98sts)

(Adult large/men) Row 18: Ch 1, *1 ls in the same st, miss the next dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc, 1 ls in the next ch1 sp, miss 1 dc,2ls in the next ch 1 sp* repeat *  to * to the end,  finish with 1 ls in the last ch 1 sp, sl st in the starting dc to (114 sts) measures 18cm (7 inches) across

Child age 3-10 years

Row 11: Repeat row 5 (64 sts)

Row 12: Repeat row 8 (64 sts)

Continue the row repeat until the hat measures 17cm (6.5 inches) from the centre to the edge. Cast off weave in the ends.  

Teen/ Small Adult

Row 16: Repeat row 8 (86 sts)

Row 17: Repeat row 5 (86 sts)

Continue the row repeat until the hat measures 20.5 cm (8 inches). Cast off weave in the ends.

Adult Large/Men

Row 19: repeat row 5 (114 sts)

Row 20: repeat row 8 (114 sts)

Continue the row repeat until the hat measures 22 cm (8.5 inches). Cast off weave in the ends.

To add the pom pom to the hat attached your ribbon by tying it to the pom pom with the strings provided. Using a sharp yarn needle weave the loose ends back into the pom pom. Attached to the top of the hat by feeding the ribbon through the had either side of row one, fasten with a bow.  The pom pom can then be removed for the hat to be washed.

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Crochet Wrap Free Pattern

English Mustard Wrap

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I have referred to this design as my labor of love on many occasions.  I started it in 2017 but it took me until spring 2018 to actually finish it.  A year felt like a very long time to be designing and making a crocheted wrap.  Why did it take me so long I here you ask?  For many reasons, but I think mostly because I didn’t focus on it as I should have.

Just after I started this wrap in early 2017 my Dad was diagnosed with a terminal brain tumor.  My Dad and my family were devastated by the news.  In the months that followed I found solace in crochet.  It took me to an altogether different space in my head where it helped me come to terms with what my family and more especially my Dad was facing and gave me the strength to get through it.

I had ordered some beautiful Drops Alpaca Uni colour in a 3 ply yarn that matched beautifully with a light coat I had just bought. I love this mustard colour it’s one of my favourite colours and is so sunny and warm on a chilly spring or autumn day and I had been eyeing the crosshatch stitch aka basket weave stitch for a while. The basket weave stitch and the alpaca yarn seemed the perfect pairing so I set off with gusto.

My fatal mistake was that as usual I started with the wrap being much to wide. I had used about 4 balls of yarn by the time I realised that the wrap had turned in to a throw that would look beautiful at the bottom of my bed but not so beautiful wrapped around my coat as it was just too bi, so frogging commenced. This not the start I would recommend after crocheting  4 balls of delicate  3 ply alpaca yarn it isn’t that easy to preserve through unpicking.  After unpicking many knots and felting many breaks I started again with a much more reserved width.  I’ve now noted down the different widths of scarf and wraps that work for me so that I don’t make the same mistake next time I begin a design! I’ve also learnt the hard way that a test swatch will tell you so much and is worth the effort when you start a project.

Now I’ve told my story I am sharing the pattern so that you don’t have to do the thinking or the frogging! You can take yourself to a better place in your head when you make this beautiful wrap.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free to keep forever take a look at my shop click HERE 

Supplies

If you would like to purchase the wool you can find a similar 4 ply at Love Crochet click HERE

You can also purchase the same crochet hook that I like to use, an Addi Swing click HERE 

6 balls Drops alpaca 3 ply in colour 2923 Goldenrod (167 m per ball, 1002 m total)

3 mm (US size C/2) crochet hook

Tapestry needle for weaving in your ends

Scissors

Pattern notes

Gauge: 10 cm wide x 10 cm tall = 6 sets of stitches x 11 rows

1 set of stitches = ch3, 3trc

Finished size: 35cm wide by 180cm  long

Abbreviations (UK terms)

Ch = chain

sl st = slip stitch

dc = double crochet

trc = treble crochet

Click HERE to find a helpful guide to converting UK terms to US

Pattern

Main body of the wrap.

Chain 130 turn

Row 1: Skip 2 ch (counts as 1 trc), 2 trc into the next ch, *skip 3 ch, 1 dc in to the next ch, 3 ch, 1 trc into each of the next 3 ch*, repeat * to * to the last 4 ch, skip 3 ch, 1 dc in the last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 trc), 2 trc into 1st dc, *skip 3 trc, 1 dc into 1st of 3 ch, 3 ch, 1 trc into next 2 ch, 1 trc into the next dc, repeat * to * ending by skipping 2 trc, 1 dc into top of the turning ch, turn.

Row 3 onward: repeat row 2 until the piece measures 176 cm long. You can adjust the size by crocheting more or less rows. Cast off on your last row.

Border

Row 1: With the right side facing you cast on at the top left corner.  You will crochet down the left side of the scarf to start.   Ch 1, 1 dc in each st of the starting ch 3 to the end, [this will be 3 dc’s per row] in the last st 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc to form a corner. You should now be at the starting row of the main body of the scarf. 1 dc in the back loop of each starting ch across, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the last st to form a corner.  Repeat as for the first side with 1 dc in each st up the second side of the scarf.  1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc to form the corner. You will now have reached the final row of the scarf, 1 dc in each st across.  Finish with a sl st in to the starting dc.

Row 2: ch 1,* 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the first corner, 1dc in each st to the next corner*. Repeat * to * to the end joining with a sl st in the first dc.

Row 3: Sl st in to the corner and first dc in the row, ch 3, skip the first 3 dc *1 trc in the next dc, ch 3, 1 trc around the stem of the previous trc, 4 times in the same place, skip the next 3 dc*, repeat * to *,at the corner put your first ch 3 in the first dc of the next side, repeat * to * treating each corner the same until you reach the last trc group.  Ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 sl st in 1st chain of the starting ch 3.

Finishing

To finish the wrap weave in and trim your ends, wash it on a hand wash cycle at 20 degrees with a suitable hand wash detergent, do not use a fabric softener. Dry flat if you can or hang it to dry shaping it as it dries.

Crochet Diagrams

Main Body

Mustard wrap diagram

Border 

Mustard wrap border

 

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Crochet Wrap Free Pattern

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Bee Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

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These pretty Bee’s were commissioned by a very special friend.  I’ve loved making them they have complimented the long hot summer here in the UK. The weather is now changing and Autumn is arriving, creating these pretty bee’s is the perfect celebration of a rare, long hot summer.

This is a simple amigurumi if your just starting out, all made from the same cotton yarn.  You need to be able to crochet in the round and be able to do (UK Terms) double crochet and two double crochet together. At some point I will get around to doing some video tutorials for all the basic stitches but there just isn’t enough time in the day just now between family, home and my full time job. If you want to learn these basic stitches and more about making amigurumi’s you will find some brilliant videos on You Tube.

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If you prefer a pattern that is advert free to keep forever take a look at my shop click HERE 

Supplies

I’ve used a Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton to make these pretty bees.  I purchased mine from Woolwarehouse in the UK. Any similar 4 ply crochet cotton will work just as well. You can also use a double knit (sport) weight yarn with the appropriate sized hook, the yarn label will tell you the correct size hook to use.  The bees will be slightly larger in a double knit yarn.

I 25g ball Scheepjes Catona 4ply Lemonade (403) Colour A

1 25g ball Scheepjes Catona 4ply Jet Black (110) Colour B

1 25g ball Scheepjes Catona 4ply Snow White (106) Colour C

2.5 mm (US size C2) crochet hook

Stitch marker

Toy stuffing for the body

Tapestry needle for embroidering and finishing

Gauge 1cm x 1cm =  4 rows x 3 stitches

Finished size – 6cm long x 3.5 cm wide

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

ch = chain

dc =  double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

sts = stitches

yo = yarn over

Special stitches

2 dctog = 2 double crochet together. Insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch yo, pull through, insert the hook into the front loop only of the next stitch yo, pull through, yo and pull through all three loops on the hook.

Click HERE to find a helpful guide to converting UK terms to US

Pattern

Body – work with the right side facing at all times

Start with a magic circle

Row 1: Colour A 6 dc in the magic circle pull to close, insert the stitch marker in the last stitch. (6 dc)

Row 2: 2 dc in each st around, move the stitch marker to the last stitch (12 dc)

Row 3: *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st* repeat * to * to the stitch marker, move the stitch marker to the last st (18 dc)

Row 4 & 5: 1 dc around, move the stitch marker to the last st for each row (18 dc in each row)

Row 6: Change to colour B, 1 dc around, move the stitch marker to the last st (18 dc)

Row 7 & 8: repeat row 6, moving the stitch marker to the last st of each row (18 dc in each row)

Row 9: Change to colour A, 1 dc around, move the stitch marker to the last stitch (18 dc)

Row 10 & 11: repeat row 9, moving the stitch maker to the last stitch at the end of each row.

At the end of row 11, before you change to colour B, turn the bee inside out and insert the antenna.  Using yarn B with a a knot in the end, insert the tapestry needle three to four rows from the center of the starting magic circle leaving the knot and a 1.5cm length of yarn on the right side of the bee, insert a locking stitch on the inside of the bee to keep it in place.  Insert the second antenna in the same stitch space on the opposite side of the bee’s head, pull the yarn through and knot it at roughly 1.5 cm from the bee’s head. The antenna doesn’t have to be perfectly aligned and if you find they are a bit floppy make them a bit shorter so the stand on their own. turn the bee back to the right side facing you and check you are happy with the antenna placement before you continue.  See the picture below to guide you.

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Row 12: change to colour B, 1 dc around, move the stitch marker to the last stitch (18 dc)

Row 13 & 14: repeat row 12 moving the stitch marker to the last stitch at the end of each row. (18 dc in each row)

Row 15: This is the first decrease row, *1 dc in the next st, 2dctog* (see special stitches), repeat around move the stitch marker to the last st (12 dc)

Stop here and insert the toy stuffing, pack it quite tightly as it will spread once you’ve finished your bee and it will give over time as it’s used.

Row 16: 2dctog around, move the stitch marker to the last st (6 dc)

Row 17: 1 dc around, move the stitch marker to the last st (6 dc)

Row 18: 2dctog to close, cast off leaving a long tail to stitch the final opening closed and weave in the end.

Wings – All in colour C

Start with a magic circle.

Row 1: 6 dc, place the stitch marker in the last st (6 dc)

Row 2: 2 dc in each st around, move the stitch marker in the last st (12 dc)

Row 3: *1 dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st*, repeat * to * around, sl st into the next st and cast off leaving a long tail to attach the wings to the body (18 dc)

Finishing

Attach the wings to body over the center of the body where the yellow middle band is with about a 1 stitch space between them.

Embroider the face on to the bee using black yarn.  You could us some black beads instead of yarn if you are not confident to embroider the eyes and mouth.

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Bee Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern

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Vintage Doily Table Runner

 

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It’s finished and I am thrilled with the end result, this as been worth the effort to make such a pretty vintage style table runner.  I have so enjoyed making each one have been surprised by how much I’ve learnt about crocheting in the round, joining motifs and reading vintage patterns.  I intend to put these skills to use in the coming months.

This is the last of three posts, the first one found HERE shared the patterns first 6 doilies and the second one found HERE shared the final 6 doilies.

I’ve set out below how I laid out and joined the doilies to make the finished piece.

Layout

This is the finished table runner with the doilies numbered as per the blog posts laid out below the picture.

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Doilies 1-6 click HERE

Doilies 7 – 12 click HERE 

Table Runner Layout

Joining

This is relatively simple, once you are happy with your layout carefully pin your doilies in place making sure that they line up on a center line.  Mine’s not perfect, it’s a little off in places but I think it adds to the charm.

Using the matching crochet thread colour for the top most doily carefully stitch the two doilies together using a simple running stitch, taking care to hide the stitches from the top.  Cast off and knot the ends as you go.  Once finished you can steam press the overall table runner using a spray starch to stiffen it.

Hand washing is recommended with a delicate detergent. Note that you may need to re-block the piece in it’s entirety should it loose too much of its overall shape.

 

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Vintage Inspired Crochet Doily Table Runner

 

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Five Free Crochet Doily Patterns No 2

My project to make vintage doilies for a table runner continues, though taking a little longer than I would like. This is solely because of the unusually hot English summer we are experiencing. The hot weather is taking up lots more of my time tending to my allotment and garden making it hard to fit in some crochet.  I’m nearly there though I think I’m on the last doily. So I’m sharing five more free patterns. I shared the first five free patterns in an earlier post you can find it HERE.

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With this hot weather watering of the allotment and garden is required every other day, we have to use watering can’s at the allotment as there are no taps for hoses only water troughs.  I timed just the watering, no weeding or picking any crops and it take’s one and half hours in total for one person.  I’ve been paying my younger son to come and help, he’s a big strong young man and always on the hunt for money to go fishing so it’s working well for us both.  His technique is to fill a 10 gallon bucket and flood the bits of the patch he’s watering.  It works, we are enjoying quite a harvest of sweat summer peas and the courgettes are coming into glut as a result.  The peas are a lovely and welcome summer treat but watering along with my full time job leaves little time for crochet.

If you want to try one of these pretty patterns but have never used thread I highly recommend you start as follows.  Take your time and be patient, use a 4 ply cotton yarn with a 3 mm hook and start by making a doily that you like, it will be bigger of course because you are using larger yarn and hooks. Once your confident and can follow the patterns, move down to a 2 mm hook and  2 ply cotton thread.  Next move down again to a 1.75 mm hook and a size 10 crochet thread and so on.  My tip is to wrap your thread around your little finger twice to help you with tension. It feels a bit fiddly to start with but with practice you will see a real difference in what you produce.

None of these patterns are my own so I have redirected you to other websites. For this post I’ve set out below either the link to a pattern or a download for the crochet diagram.

Patterns

Similar or the same supplies can all be purchased at Love Crochet click HERE to find the thread yarns.

Doily No 7

Supplies – 1.75mm crochet hook (US 5 Steel), vintage rayon thread

Finished size:  10 cm or  4 inches across

A small doily that I’ll use as a filler along the edge of my table runner, you could use this for coasters in this thread or you could use a size 10 thread and it will come up just a bit bigger.

You will find a link to the diagram that you can download and print below the picture

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Click here Japanese Doily No 7 to download the crochet diagram for the doily pictures above.

Doily No 8

Supplies 1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 Steel), Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton No 30 Col. 09926 (Ecru)

Finished size: 14  cm or 5 inches across

Another Japanese pattern that you can download from the link provided below the picture.  I love this one, the diagram was easy to follow and it’s so pretty now it’s finished.

 

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Click here – Japanese Doily No 8 to download a PDF of the crochet diagram.

Doily No 9

Supplies: 1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), DMC Babylo No 30 Crochet thread colour 3864

Finished Size:  26 cm / 10 inches across

A beautiful pattern that did take a while more because I had to work out how to read the pattern rather than it being difficult to make. This one is copyrighted and is from a vintage crochet book.  You can buy the book, I found it on ebay for just a few pounds.  Have a search around and you will find one to buy. I’ve inserted a picture of the book below.

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Coats Sewing Group Book No 986 Irish Crochet.  It has all the traditional Irish crochet motifs in it too so it’s a good buy.

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Doily No 10 – Simple Doily by Nancy Hearne

Supplies:  1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton No 30 Col. 00001 (white)

Finished Size: 14.5 cm /  5 3/4inches across

A pretty and simple to make doily, I finished this on a little too early and didn’t include the little crowns around the edge.

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Click HERE to find the pattern on Nancy’s website.

Doily No 11 – Passion Flower by Denise Augostine

Supplies:  1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton No 30 Col. 00001 (white)

Finished Size: 16.5 cm /  6 1/4 inches across

A pretty doily that I enjoyed so much I made two! A really pretty pattern that looks like a Passions flower, as its name suggests.  It introduced me to the the pineapple and fan pattern you see in so many vintage patterns.

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Click HERE to find the pattern.

 

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Five Free Crochet doily Patterns No 2

Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

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Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern Lemon Sherbet

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There last year has been so full of new babies, such a joy to see so many new little lives entering the world. When I was asked to make a blanket for a new arrival I knew just what I wanted to make, I had seen a very interesting technique for invisibly joining squares that I really wanted to try out.

When I accepted the commission I didn’t know if the new arriveal would be a boy or girl so we chose some lemon colours to stay neutral.  The design I had in mind started to take shape.  Halfway through making the blanket new arrival came unexpectedly early and was a bouncing baby boy so I changed the border to be a little from my original idea to be a little plainer to fit with the new arrival.  I am very pleased with the invisible join technic, watch out for a tutorial on how to do it, it’s coming to the blog soon.

For now I’m sharing the pattern, this is not a quick to make blanket overall, but it is good if you are short on time as you can squeeze in a few squares every day.

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This blanket is for a pram (stroller) blanket and is 6 squares by 8 squares, each square is 3 inches wide, giving a blanket size of 21” x 27” including the border which is the same width as one square. If you want a bigger blanket you can just add another row or column of squares.  I like the smaller size squares they make the pretty patchwork effect I was looking for , for this pretty crocheted blanket.   9 x 9 3” squares will give you the right size for a slightly larger receiving blanket including the border.

The essential crochet accessory for this project is a granny blocking station. If you’ve never used one you must find a way, they make your work look so professional because using it will make every square the same size and shape giving a much better finish to your work.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free and to keep forever take a look at my shop HERE where you will find this pattern.

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Supplies

I used acrylic yarn to be soft on baby’s skin you can purchase the yarn from Love Crochet press HERE for the link. Each 100g ball is 280m you will have some left over.

1 x 100g ball Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Double Knit shade primrose (0957) Colour A

1 x 100g ball Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Double Knit shade Aran (993) Colour B

1x 100g ball Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Double Knit shade White (961) Colour C

1 x 100g ball Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Double Knit shade light grey mix (814) Colour D

1 x 100g ball Sirdar Hayfield Bonus Double Knit shade Walnut (927) Colour E

5mm hook (US 8)

Tapestry needle for weaving in your ends, Scissors

Granny block station

Special Stitches

Picot – dc,ch 2 insert hook into the first ch of the ch 2, yo, pull through all loops on hook

 

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Pattern

Granny square, make 48 squares in total by making the following number of squares in each colour to get the random square effect of the blanket.

Colour A – 7

Colour B – 9

Colour C – 10

Colour D – 11

Colour E – 11

Start with a magic circle, alternatively ch 4 join with a sl st work row 1 in the first ch

Row 1: ch 3, 11 trc in the magic ring sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3 to join.

Row 2: ch 3, 2 trc, ch 2, *2 trc in the next st (first corner made), trc in the next two sts*, repeat * to * three times to create your square, your ch 3 counts as your second trc to end the square, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3 to finish the row.

Row 3: ch 3, trc in the next 2 sts, *2 trc in the next st (first corner made), trc in the next 6 sts*, repeat * to * twice more, 2 trc in the next st (last corner made), trc in the next 3 sts, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3 to finish the row

Row 4: ch 1, dc in each st to the corner, 2 dc in the corner space, repeat to the end, sl st in the first dc to finish.

You will find a stitch diagram at the end of this post

Weave in your ends and spray each square with water to damp it slightly then place on your granny block station to dry, this will give you a very evenly shaped square.  Using the blocking station is not essential but it will give a very even finish to your squares and they will be easier to join.

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When all your squares are finished layout them out as shown in this picture joining them using the invisible stitch method.  Weave in all your ends before starting the border.

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Border

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Row 1: Using Colour C *dc in each st to the corner, dc, ch 2, dc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 2: (Colour C) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, change to colour B, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 3: (Colour B) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, change to colour A, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 4: (Colour A) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 5: (Colour E) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, change to colour E, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 6: (Colour E) picot in the first stitch, *miss one st, picot* repeat * to * to the first corner, picot twice in the ch 2 of the last row, picot in the next st, * picot, miss one st, picot*, repeat * to * to the end using the first corner pattern for the next three corners. sl st to join cast off.

To finish weave in your ends, wash and dry the blanket flat, the squares will pucker a little you can steam iron the blanket using a cloth to protect it from the heat to flatten the squares.

Stitch Diagram – Granny Square

Crochet Chart lemon Sherbet Square

Key

Stitch Key lemon sherbet

Stitch Diagram – Border

Lemon Sherbet border diagram

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Lemon Sherbet Blanket Pin

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Crochet How To – Magic Circle aka Adjustable Ring – Video Tutorial

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When I first started crocheting my grandmother “Nanny” taught me to start with 3 or 4 chains joined together with all the starting stitches being worked in to the beginning chain.

When I started to crochet again a few years ago I wanted to make some of the very pretty appliques that start with circles and couldn’t work out how to get them so tight in the middle, you only get a tight centre when working in to a chain if you have lots of starting stitches.  So I searched and searched for a good video or picture tutorial on how to make an adjustable ring, I call it a magic circle because it is magic – so simple but so clever. I only found some a few picture tutorials and a few less than great videos with that little bit of help I taught myself. I don’t want you to have to do all that searching so I’ve made video that I think is clear enough to teach you how to make a magic circle. Once you’ve mastered it you will never forget and will use it always.

I haven’t looked back a since I learnt neither will you xxx

 

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Five free Crochet Doily Patterns

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A few weeks ago I was totally inspired by Poppytoft’s 100 day project so I decided to set out on a lengthy crochet project that I’ve had planned for some time but hadn’t quite got to.

Thread crochet has long held my attention as my grandma loved it too.  She taught me to crochet many, many years ago. When I started to crocheting again my Mum gave me a pomander that my Grandmother had made. She obviously loved thread crochet too and I feel very privileged to be the keeper of this precious and delicate piece.   It still has the original potpourri inside. I just can’t bring myself to replace and I worry that it will start to fall apart from age so it’s kept safe, in cabinet far away from the sun. If anyone has any suggestions on how to store it to stop it degrading any further I would love to hear from you?

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This project is a vintage inspired doily table runner. At the time of starting this post I’d made six doilies but will need many more to complete the project.  It will take me a while so I didn’t want to wait to share the patterns and the pictures of my makes so I’ve been posting weekly progress via Instagram and will post here at the end of each month with the free patterns and a sum up of my makes so you can see the progress.   I will end with a tutorial to show you how to make up the table runner.

For this post I’ve set out below either the link to a pattern or a download for the crochet diagram.  None of these patterns are my own so I have redirected you to other websites.  If you are new to crocheting this may not be the right starting project for you as thread crochet needs some practice, but once you get the hang of it, it’s as easy as any other type of crochet.  If you would like some advice on how to start learning to crochet with thread please do contact me via the contacts page.

I have found that there is a delicate balance between everyday life, making commissions, writing blog posts and trying out new and challenging crochet projects to learn and grow. That balance is sometimes hard to get right.  My blogging friends will totally understand the need to keep you follower’s entertained with creating new and exciting crochet items for inspired new blog posts, with taking time to learn new things for future inspirational blog posts and pattern sharing.  I’m very much in this space at the moment. I haven’ t posted for a while because I’ve been learning so much so I hope you haven’t missed me too much.

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Patterns

So here goes for the patterns that I’ve made these beautiful doilies from so far.  All the links to the patterns or to download the diagrams can be found beneath each picture.

Similar or the same supplies can all be purchased at Love Crochet click HERE.

Doily no 1 – Triangle doilies joined

Supplies – 1.75mm crochet hook (US 5 Steel), vintage rayon thread

Finished size:  20cm or 8 inches across

This  vintage rayon crochet thread was gifted from a friends grandmother. I’m not 100% sure that my idea to join crocheted triangles was completely successful!  However, the colour and weight of the thread are beautiful and I have plans for a larger doily in this beautiful thread.

IMG_1088Click this link to download a PDF copy of the pattern Russian Thread diagram

Doily No 2 – Sunflower

Supplies: 1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), DMC Babylo No 30 Crochet thread colour 3864

Finished Size:  15 cm / 6 inches across

This doily is the most beautiful one that I have made so far and but I just didn’t expect it I love this Babylo thread and the colour is perfect.  The pattern is from a Coats Sewing Group vintage magazine, a gift from a lady at work when her mother passed away. I’ve inserted a picture of the book below, the motif is a sunflower meant for a picture with other flowers and plant pots as you can see from the front of the magazine.  I just liked the sunflower.  If you’ve ever published a pattern you will know how precious the rights are to it’s existence so I can’t reproduce it as it would break copy right laws. If you really wan the book you can search on ebay where I you will find a copy of the magazine, search for Coats Sewing Group Book No 1160. This pattern, in fact the whole book, is in UK Terms.

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Coats Sewing Group No 1160

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Doily No 3 – Ecru Doily

Supplies:  1.75mm crochet hook (US Steel 5) DMC Babylo No 10 Ecru 0001

Finished Size: 28cm / 11 inches across

A bigger doily that will form the center runner for a pattern by Nancy Hearne that is available from her website.  One of my first ever doilies was by Nancy, I made it for my friends wedding. She married in to and Irish family where it is tradition to give a piece of Irish lace for luck.  This pattern is in US Terms.

IMG_1092 http://www.nancyhearne.com/drawingboard/ecrudoily.htm

Doily No 4 – Summer Splendor

Supplies:  1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton No 30 Col. 00001 (white)

Finished Size: 25cm / 10 inches across

A beautiful pattern found through a ravelry search. The pattern is called Summer Splendor by Denise (Augostine) Owens. The pattern is found on a pattern archive that I have come across before. This was a lovely non complex repeating pattern.  It hasn’t been blocked so does need a steam iron before I put the table runner together. It doesn’t seem to have lost any beauty for not being blocked, it’s name really suits it’s finish. This pattern is in US Terms.

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http://web.archive.org/web/20040413004603/http://denisecrochets.com/summer-splendor.html

Doily No 5 – Daisy Chain Doily

Supplies: 1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 Steel), Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton No 30 Col. 09926 (Ecru)

Finished Size: 33cm / 13 inches across

This is the largest of all the doilies so far I just love it.  It was tricky to make, I’m not sure if it was because I was making it whilst unwell or because I wasn’t paying close enough attention to the instructions but much frogging took place whilst trying to attach the flowers. I learnt a lot with this pattern, it’s inspired me to set out some future projects.  This pattern is in US terms.

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https://www.free-crochet.com/detail.html?code=FC00218&cat_id=309

Doily No 6 – Flower Doily

Supplies: 1.25mm crochet hook (US 12 steel), DMC Babylo No 30 Crochet thread colour 3864

Finished Size:  13 cm / 5 1/4 inches across

I’m not sure what language this doily is in but it’s very pretty and reminds me of a rose.  It’s from a crochet diagram that I’ve inserted a link below so that you can download the pattern as a PDF. This is much smaller at only 13 cm across I will use this as an edge filler to make the table runner wider.

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Click here for a PDF copy of the Crochet Rose Doily Diagram

Look out for more doilies via my Instagram feed, you can see at the top of this post on the right hand panel or you can find and follow me by searching for  @amandajonescrochet in Instagram where you will see my weekly progress.  Look out here for the next post in this series in a few weeks time.

 

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Five Free Crochet Doily Patterns

 

Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

Featured

5 Free Unicorn Amigurumi Patterns

How cute is this Unicorn!

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I’ve been busy hooking this pretty unicorn for my friend’s little girl.  It’s her 7th Birthday and I wanted to make something special for her. I don’t get to make pretty toys and girls things very often. Most of my recent commissions have been baby blankets.  I do design each blanket that I make and I’m always, always happy to be asked to make something.  The only problem is that making lots blankets doesn’t add much variety to my crochet repertoire.  I have two teenage boys so making anything this cute for them is out of the question and I re found my love of crochet too late for my nieces as they are now in their teens too.  They like the quirky scarfs I make and they all have hats made by me.  I’m trying to persuade them to get creative with ideas for funky crochet tops and colla’rs but they aren’t quite getting the vibe.  I’ll keep trying! So making something cute for a little girl was the perfect opportunity to have a go at something different.

I have only every made a rabbit and that was to challenge myself when I first started crocheting again so I pondered what type of unicorn the I should make?  I did a couple of weeks of research in to how to make Amigurumi’s of all types and then I researched all types of unicorn patterns.  Then I found the cutest pattern on this award-winning blog.  Little Yarn Friends click HERE to take a look there are lots of very cute patterns all well written and easy to follows. This blog deserves it’s award it is very good.

I didn’t want to waste my research so here are five of the best free unicorn Amigurumi patterns that I found.  I wanted to save for myself for later which means I can share them with you too.

  1. This is a cute tiny unicorn by  Ahookamigurumi. 

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2. A really cute ragdoll style unicorn, fast to work up too, by Spinayarncrochet 

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3. This extra sweet macaron amigurumi by Paintitcolourful

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4. This one is by Amigurum BB, this blog post shows you how to crochet the eyes too

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5. Last but not least this adorable sleeping unicorn by Amigurumi Today

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Don’t forget to pin this round up to your pinterest board so that you don’t forget where you found them xx

Unicorn Pattern Round up by Amandajonescrochet

 

 

Featured

Crochet Coasters

A friend at work asked me to make her some crocheted coasters in pretty bright colours.  I saw this as a perfect opportunity to design my own crochet coaster pattern. I’m very pleased with the result as is my friend and I now have lots of requests to make more. With Easter on the horizon I needed something to brighten my coffee table so I thought that these were the perfect addition, easy to make and fast to work up they add a beautiful touch of bright colour.  You can make them in endless colour combinations to suit your taste and they are the perfect gift, they can be so individual.  You could sell them selling fast at a craft fair on a market stall and the added bonus is that they are a brilliant stash buster.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free to keep forever take a look at my shop click HERE.

Crochet Coaster Pattern

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Supplies

Shjeepes Catona 4ply various colours

3mm hook

Tapesrty needle

Scissors

You can find similar colours in a 4ply cotton yarn, crochet hooks and Scissor at Love Crochet click HERE 

Gauge: The finished coaster diameter measures 10 cm or 4 inches across

Yardage 16.4 yards in total

Click HERE for a guide to converting UK to US terms

Pattern Notes

Colour A – centre and edging

Colour B – Main colour

Special Stitches (English Terms)

2 treble crochet cluster – 2trcc

Yo insert hook into the desired stitch, yo, pull through the stitch, yo pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 1 loop, [2 loops left on the hook]. Yo, insert hook into the same stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 1 loop,[3 loops left on the hook]. Yo, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, ch 1 to close the stitch.

3 treble crochet cluster – 3trcc

Yo insert hook into the desired stitch, yo, pull through the stitch, yo pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 1 loop, [2 loops left on the hook]. Yo, insert hook into the same stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 1 loop,[3 loops left on the hook]. Yo, insert hook into the same stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 1 loop [4 loops on the hook]. Yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook, ch 1 to close the stitch.

Abbreviations

Yo = yarn over

dc = double crochet

sl st = slip stitch

ch = chain

Pattern (English Terms)

Row 1 – (Colour A if you are doing a different coloured centre, colour B if you are not) Start with a magic circle , 6 dc, sl st into the first dc (If you are doing a different coloured centre use colour B to sl st and close row 1)

Row 2 – (Colour B) Ch 3, 2 trcc, *ch 4, 3 trcc in the next dc*, repeat *to* join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3.

Row 3 – sl st in the top of the 2 trcc, sl st into the ch 4 space, ch 3, 4 trc, ch 2,* 5trc in to the next ch 4 space, ch 2*, repeat *to * join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3.

Row 4 – Ch 3, 1 trc in the same stitch, ch 1, miss 1 st, 2 trcc in the next trc, miss 1 st, 2 trcc in the next trc. 2 trcc, twice, in the ch 2 space. *2 trcc in the next dc, miss 1 st, 2 trcc in the next dc, miss one st, 2 trcc in the next dc, 2 trcc, twice in the ch 2 space*.  Repeat from *to* four times, sl (with colour A if using) in the top of the starting trc (not the ch 3 start).

Row 5 – 1 dc in the trc (same st as joining if using different colours). 2 dc in the ch 1 space, *1dc in the top of the 2 trcc, 2 dc in the ch 1 space* repeat from *to* until the end join with a sl st into the starting dc.  Cast off weave in the ends and trim.

Finishing: Wash the coasters in a light detergent, rinse, dry flat and steam block to give a professional finish.

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Crochet Coaster Free Pattern

Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Row 3

 

Row 4

 

Row 5

 

Featured

Crochet Toddler Hat Pattern

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This is a perfect spring hat that I made this hat to go with a cardigan (see the picture below) as a commission for a friend.  The cardigan uses linen stitch (aka granite stitch) for the main body of the cardigan and the sleeves.  I love linen stitch it’s very effective when using a new colour for each round and it’s brilliant for a chunky blanket or pillow.  Click HERE to see a beautiful grey blanket that I made for a friend using a super chunky yarn using the same linen stitch.

I hadn’t originally intended to make a hat but when I made the cardigan I just knew it needed a hat to go with it and, that the hat and cardigan both needed a pretty flower to embellish them. This works equally well for a boy just leave flower off the hat.

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Making a hat was one of my very first crochet projects on picking up the hook for the first time in many years. Since then I’ve made a few but this is my first venture into designing a hat pattern all by myself.  My challenge was to use the same stitches in the hat as in the cardigan so that they match. I’m very pleased with the outcome I think it works really well.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free to keep forever take a look at my shop click HERE.

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Supplies

if you would like to purchase the wool you can find it at Love Crochet click HERE 

Yarn Patons wool blend aran 1 ball 100g 185 meters Colour Steel 097

Flower – cream and pink Aran weight yarn of your choice from your stash

5mm crochet hook (US H-8)

Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Scissors

Finished size; Toddler age 1-3 years, crown width 5.75 inches, hat length top to edge is 7 inches.

This pattern is written in UK terms find a guide to converting to US terms click HERE.

There are no special stitches.

Pattern (UK terms)

Start with a magic circle, leave a tail at least 2 inches long for weaving in at the end. Alternatively start with ch 4, sl st into the first ch, ch 2 11 trc in the first ch. Place a st marker in the ch 3 starting sts.

Row 1: Ch 3 (insert your st marker in the top of ch 3 in each row as you progress if using), 11 trc in the magic circle, close the circle sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3 (12 st)

Row 2: Ch 3,*2 trc in the next st,* repeat to the end, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch to join(24 st)

Row 3: Ch 3 *2 trc in the next st, 1 trc in the next 3 sts*, repeat to the end, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch to join (30 st)

Row 4: Ch 3, *2 trc in the next st, 1 trc in the next 5 sts*, repeat to the end, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch to join (35st)

Row 5: Ch 3, *2 trc in the next st, 1 trc in the next 7 sts*, repat to the end, , sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch to join (40st) check your measurements here the circle should be 5 inches wide, if its bigger start again with a smaller hook, if its smaller start again with a larger hook.

Row 6: Ch 3, 1 trc in each st to the end, sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch to join (40sts)

Rows 7-10: repeat row 6.

From here you will work in linen stitch

Row 11: Ch 1 dc in each st,sl st in the ch 1 of the start of the row to join (40st)

Row 12: Ch 1, 1 dc in the same st, *ch 1 miss one st, 1 dc*, repeat * to* to the end you should end with a ch 1, sl st into the starting dc.

Row 13: Ch 2 miss 1 st, 1 dc in the ch 1 space, *ch 1 miss 1 st, 1 dc in the ch 1 space*, repeat *to* to the end finish with 1 dc sl st into the 2nd ch of the starting ch 2.

Row 14: Ch 1, 1 dc in the ch 1 space, *ch1, miss one st, 1dc in the ch 1 space* repeat *to* the end, finish with a ch 1 sl st into the starting dc.

Row 15: Repeat rows 11 and 12 once more 17 rows in total before you cast off check he hat measures 6.5 inches from top to bottom if it’s too long, unpick your work, if it’s too short do another row of linen st. Cast off and weave in your ends.

Flower Pattern

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Supplies

Small amount of Aran weight wool in colours of your choice I used cream for the centre and pink for the petals.

Colour A = cream

Colour B = Pink

Pattern (UK terms)

Row 1:  Colour A, start with a magic circle, ch 1, 8 dc in the ring, pull the ring closed, change to Colour B sl st in the first DC to close.

Row 2: Colour B continued, Ch 3, 2 dtrc in the next dc, ch 3 sl st in the same dc, *sl st into the next dc, ch 3, 2 dtrc in the next dc, ch 3, sl st into the same dc*, repeat* to * 6 more times until you have 8 leaves, cast off and leave a long tail for weaving in your ends.

Attach the flower to the hat in a location of your choice.

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Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you for free.  Please see the Terms for more information.

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One Skein Crochet Scarf Free Pattern

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Crochet Scarf Forever Green

When I received this pretty ball of sock yarn a Zauberball, I made the classic mistake and didn’t think to buy another immediately!  One ball just isn’t enough for a pair of socks. I’ve struggled with getting to grips sock sizing with the thinner sock yarn, so I searched high and low for months for a pattern that I liked that would use just the one ball. I just couldn’t find a pattern that showed off the beautiful colour range in this Zauberball so I had no alternative but to make up a pattern for this pretty fingerling yarn. The colourway inspired me to make a spring scarf in anticipation of the beautiful green colours of summer, this is a perfect gift for Mother’s Day.

make a spring scarf in anticipation of the beautiful green colours of summer.

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I knew I wanted something lacy, but I was worried that one ball wouldn’t quite be enough to get a good length or width for wrapping around your shoulders with a pattern that is all lacy shells.  So I chose two stitch patterns to overcome this; a filet crochet basic square pattern and a two-row repeating shell pattern. You can see the effect of the using the two together in picture below.

I really enjoyed making this scarf it was very portable so became my travel companion for many Railway journeys across the southwest of England. I hope you enjoy making it as much as I have xx

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free and to keep forever click HERE to take a look at my shop.

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Supplies

1 Zauberball in shade 2244, 3ply 420m you can purchase this yarn at Love Crochet click HERE

3.75mm crochet hook (US F/5)

Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Scissors

Blocking matt and pins to finish your scarf

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

Ch = chain

dc = double crochet

trc = treble crochet

For UK to US terms conversion click HERE

Special Stitches

5 treble crochet popcorn = 5trcp

Work 5 treble crochets in to the same stitch, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back under the top two loops of the first treble crochet of the group. Pick up the dropped loop with your hook and pull it through the two loops of the first treble.

Finished dimensions – 20cm wide by 175cm long

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Pattern Notes

When starting your first row of fillet crochet it may not be quite long enough for the fillet crochet repeat, just reduce your spacing slightly to accommodate a full ch 1, 1trc in the first row.  It will then correct itself as you repeat each row.

Blocking this scarf is essential to get the width and to even out the two stitch patterns.

Pattern

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Row 1: Ch 50, 1dc in the 2nd ch from the hook, *ch1, miss the next 3 ch, 1trc, ch1 twice, 1 trc, all in the next ch (shell made), ch 1, miss the next 3 ch, 1 dc* repeat * to * to the end of the ch. ( 6 shells in total) You will end on the last dc. Turn.

Row 2: ch 6 (counts as a trc and ch3), miss the next trc. 1 dc in the next trc. *ch3, 5trcp in the next dc. Ch 3 miss the next trc, 1 dc in the next trc* repeat to the end. Finish with 1trc in the last dc.

Row 3: Ch1, 1dc in the same st, *ch1, 1trc, ch 2 twice, 1trc all in the same ch (shell made) ch 1. 1 dc in the top of the 4trcp* Repeat to the end finishing with 1 dc in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 6 of the last row.  Turn

Row 4 : Repeat rows 2 and 3, 9 times, repeat row 2 one more time (21 rows in total).

Row 22: ch 4, (counts as 1 trc, ch 1) miss one st, *1trc, ch 1, miss one st* repeat to the end finishing with 1trc in the last st. Turn.

Row 23: repeat row 22, 18 times.

Row 41: Repeat row 4

Repeat rows 22 and 23 until you have 5 repeats of Row 2 and 3, the shell pattern. And 4 repeats of row 22 to 40, you should finish on a shell row.

To finish

Weave in the ends don’t trim them yet!  Hand wash and block your finished scarf.

 

Pattern Chart

Forever Green Scarf Chart

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Free Crochet Scarf Pattern Forever Green

 

Note this blog post contains affiliate links, if you choose to use the links to purchase supplies I will receive a very small commission that helps me to continue to develop and publish free patterns.  You will not be charged any extra if you use these links.  For more information please refer to the Terms page.


 

 

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Tutorial – Crochet Heart Pillow

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Two weeks ago I posted a crochet pattern for a pretty heart in three different sizes you can find the pattern here. This week I want to show you how to use the heart pattern to make a pretty pillow. You could make it as a gift or keep it just for you.

You only need a few supplies, they are listed below, there isn’t anything too expensive and this is such a nice way to use the pretty hearts.

If you would prefer a crochet pattern that is advert free and to keep forever, take a look a my shop here.

Supplies 

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The picture above shows all the supplies you will need, in addition a pencil rubber is handy for getting rid of your measurement marks on the paper. I bought the frame for a few pounds in the Range in the UK, Walmart will no doubt sell similar in the US.  You can use any PVA glue I really like the Hi-Tac one shown as it dries clear. It is just sticky enough when wet to hold an item but doesn’t dry to quickly, you can move whatever your gluing  before it dries which really helps with this type of project.

List of Supplies :-

  • tape measure
  • tailors chalk or a pencil
  • sewing needle and thread, the colour should match your hearts
  • Dressmakers pins
  • 45cm x 45cm pillow case and pad.
  • 21 thread crocheted hearts using Double Knit (light worsted weight) yarn in a colour of your choice

How To 

1.The first thing you will need to do is make 42 of the crochet hearts.  Using a double knit (light worsted weight) cotton and  a 3.5mm hook.  The pattern can be found here. You can decide if you want to make all red hearts, or all cream hearts or another color(s) of your choice.  I chose all red for one side and all cream hearts for the other side, so you can switch it round when you want to.

2. Take your pillow and remove the pad from inside it. If the pillow case is creased give it a press with a steam iron before you start attaching your hearts.

3. Using the tape measure and tailors chalk or pencil measure your pillow to find the center and mark it with a cross, it should no bigger than one of your hearts so it doesn’t show when you are finished.

4. Begin laying your first five hearts in a row your third heart should be over the cross mark you made earlier. You should have 2 hearts above the center mark and 2 below, place your hearts roughly 2cm apart. Remove the center heart so you can see the center of your pillow, this will help you keep everything centered and let you make a lovely heart shape.

5. Next lay your next five hearts vertically 2cm apart on the right side of your first row, roughly 2cm from the widest part of the hearts in the first row and half a heart higher than your first row. You should now have two rows in total.

6. Repeat with five more hearts laid vertically 2cm apart to the left of the first row, rougly 2cm from the widest part of the hearts in the first row and half a heart higher  than your first row.  The two outside rows should now be slightly higher than your starting row.

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7. Next lay three hearts on either side of your three rows, half a heart lower than your last row and roughly 2cm apart vertically and horizontally from the widest part of the heart in the last row. You should now be able to see the heart shape, if your hearts don’t quite look like they are in the right place this is your opportunity to move them around until you are happy with them.

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8. Being careful to only  pin your hearts to the top layer of your pillow case, pin all your hearts in place.  Pin one at a time and check the placement of each heart before you pin it to the pillow case.  Before you start sewing them to the pillow case take a look at your masterpiece and adjust your heart shape should you need to. Don’t move them too much much the overall finish is not meant to be perfectly even. I rotated the hearts a little on the outside rows but only a little to make the heart shape a little more rounded in appearance.

9. Once you are happy with your heart shape you can start to stitch each heart into place.  Just do one at a time and be careful to line them up. I just used a running stitch around the edge of the heart, in the picture below you can see it from the back.

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10. Once all your hearts are sewn on you’ve finished you just need to re-insert the pillow pad.  Now you have a beautiful handmade heart pillow for that special someone in your life.

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Tutorial - Handmade Heart Pillow

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Tutorial – How to make a Heart Picture

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Last week I posted a crochet pattern for a pretty heart in three different sizes you can find the pattern here. This week I want to show you how to use the heart pattern to make a pretty picture. You could make it as a gift or keep it to hang in your home.

You only need a few supplies, they are listed below, there isn’t anything too expensive and this is such a pretty and effective way to use your crochet hearts.

Supplies 

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The picture above shows all the supplies you will need, in addition a pencil rubber is handy for getting rid of your measurement marks on the paper. I bought the frame for a few pounds in the Range in the UK, Walmart will no doubt sell similar in the US.  You can use any PVA glue I really like the Hi-Tac one shown as it dries clear. It is just sticky enough when wet to hold an item but doesn’t dry to quickly, you can move whatever your gluing  before it dries which really helps with this type of project.

List of Supplies :-

  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • PVA glue
  • 9″ x 9″ box picture frame
  • 21 thread crocheted hearts in a colour of your choice
  • 1 A4 sheet of paper or card in the colour of your choice for the background of your picture, I’ve used a cream heavy weight paper.

How To 

1.The first thing you will need to do is make 21 of the little thread crochet hearts.  Using a 10 count cotton crochet thread and  a 1.75mm hook.  The pattern can be found here. You can decide if you want to make all red hearts, or all cream hearts or another color(s) of your choice.  I chose three cream hearts and 19 red hearts. I wanted them to look like a heart in a heart.

2. Take your picture frame and open it up. I always clean the glass inside and out to make sure your finished picture looks just perfect.

3. Take the paper inlay and lay it on top of your backing paper. Mark your backing paper using the ruler and pencil to the size of the inlay, cut your paper to size.

4. Find the center of your backing paper and mark it with a small cross. Begin laying your first five hearts in a row. You should have 2 hearts above the center mark and 2 below.  Remove the center heart so you can see the center of your page, this will help you keep everything centered.

5. Next lay your next five hearts on the right side of your first row, half a heart higher than your first row. You should now have two rows in total.

6. Repeat with five more hearts to the left of the first row, don’t forget it needs to be half a heart higher than the first row. The two outside rows should be slightly higher than your starting row.

7. Next lay three hearts on either side of your three rows, half a heart lower than your last row. You should now be able to see the heart shape, if your hearts don’t quite look like they are in the right place this is your opportunity to move them around until you are happy with them.

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8. Place the center heart on the paper.  You can now adjust your heart shape should you need to.  Don’t mess with it too much it’s not meant to be perfectly even, I rotated the hearts a little on the outside rows but only a little.

9. Once you are happy with your heart shape you can start to glue each one into place.  Just do one at a time and be careful to line them up.  If it helps you can remove the center heart to uncover your cross to help you maintain your shape. Don’t worry if the glue come through the hearts it should dry clear then you won’t see it.

10. Leave your hearts to dry. Once dry you can mount the picture onto the back of the picture frame.  Place a number of glue dots on the back and carefully line up your picture.  Leave it to dry.

11. Once its completely dry rub off any pencil marks that remain from finding your center point.  Most important do a small signature in the bottom right with the year number, I like to do this in pencil.

12. Now you are ready to mount your finished picture. Carefully place it back it the frame and secure it with the frame fastenings.  All finished and now you have your finished handmade picture. Beautiful xx

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Featured

Crochet Heart Free Pattern

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For the next three weeks I will show you first, in this post, how to make this very pretty but simple crochet heart.  In the following two weeks I will show you how to use the heart in three different sizes to make the perfect valentines gift. This pretty heart applique can be used to great effect for that special person in your life who, like my husband, isn’t quite as excited about crochet as I am.

I love crochet but my husband and father are and where not as excited about crochet as all the girls in my life!  I’ve been pondering on how to use my crochet to show how much I love my husband on this the most romantic day of the year.  If your reading this post you will notice that in my header there is a crochet diagram of a heart.  This is absolutely the inspiration for this post and the basis of this quick, simple but beautifully effective little bit of crochet love.  I’ve gotten lots more inspiration for pretty hearts from lot of amazing crochet designers you can find some of their patterns here .

I have set out below, one pattern with an updated diagram, the diagram on the header of this page has developed a little so this one is slightly different.  You only need the one pattern for all three of the hearts in the picture above.

If you prefer a crochet pattern that is advert free, to keep forever take a look in my shop. The proceeds from my sales will help support me designing more patterns to share with you for free.

Supplies

1 100g ball Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton double knit Poppy Red 1949

1 100g ball Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton double knit Cream 1851

1 50g ball Stylecraft Classique Cotton 4 ply Ivory 3665

1 50g ball Stylecraft Classique Cotton 4 ply Poppy Red 3672

These or similar cotton yarn can be found at Love Crochet click here to view

1 25g ball Schjeepes bonbon 2 ply cotton Scarlet 192

1 25g ball Schjeepes Bonbon 2 ply cotton Old Lace 130

Schjeepes bonbon can be purchased from Woolwarehouse in the UK click here to view.

DMC do a similar Babylo thread, however I struggled to find the right red colour you may find an Aunt Lydia crochet thread comes in a beautiful shade of red in the UK which is perfect for these hearts.

Hook sizes: –

1.75mm (US steel size 2) for the smallest heart to use with the Schjeepes bonbon, DMC or Aunt Lydia thread.

2.5mm (US size C2) for the medium size heart to use with the Stylecraft Classique 4 ply cotton

3.5mm (US Size E4) for the largest heart to use with the Wendy Supreme luxury double knit

Note: The pattern is written in UK terms you can find the conversion to US term HERE

Note: There are no special stitches

Pattern

Start with an adjustable ring

Row 1: ch 3, 3 trc, 4 htrc, 1 trc, 4htrc, 3 trc, ch 3, sl st to join all thein the adjustable ring. Pull the ring closed but do not pull it too tight.

Row 2: 3 sl st in the ch 3 of row 1, 7 dc.  1dc, ch2, 1dc in the trc of row 1. 7 dc, 3 sl st in the ch 3 of row 1, sl st into the adjustable ring, ch 1 and cast off.

Finish: If you are using the heart applique for a pillow or item of clothing that will be laundered weave in your ends using a tapestry needle .  If you are using the heart applique for a card or picture then just tie a double knot and trim the thread so they don’t show from the front.

Crochet Diagram

Heart V2

 

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Please note this post contains affiliate links, you are not charged any extra if you use these links. However if you purchase something using the link I get a very small reward to help me keep designing these patterns for you.  Please see the Terms for more information.

 

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Christmas Bauble Free Crochet Pattern

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This is my third Christmas of crocheting and every year I look back and can’t quite believe how far I’ve come.  This year my friend asked me to make her some seaside themed decorations for her Christmas Tree.  I made her the beach huts earlier this year, you can find the pattern HERE. All for her holiday home on the Isle of White.

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I started out with the idea of some crochet appliques and found some Russian and Japanese crochet diagrams to follow.  They came out really well but they didn’t make me buzz with excitement.  The mermaid in particular was tricky to follow as I don’t read Japanese and don’t know anyone who does. The few scant words of guidance were lost for me and the patterns aren’t great for sharing because they are complex.  I have left it too late to do a tutorial but maybe I will do one next summer for a new beach themed garland or wreath.

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Sea themed Christmas Appliques

I am always short of time but I do love to give a gift at Christmas that I’ve put all my love and effort into. I decided on crochet baubles after seeing some amazing ones on pinterest. You can follow me on pinterest click HERE to find my page.  I wanted the baubles to be quick and simple so I could make lots and so that I could share them with you. I made lots of apple cosies when I was re-learning to crochet so I had the idea on how to start the bauble. I did a pattern search and had a go at a free pattern that I found to give me the idea of what I wanted, the size and increase and decrease method.   This is my one:-

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You can find this pattern over on Ravelry by a brilliant designer Carmen Heffernan click HERE  It’s a really easy pattern that you make in two halves and stitch together so you can crochet it over a bauble that has the top to hang it from.  I really like the spike stitch it works brilliantly for this project, its very effective.

I have designed two different baubles the first one is the simplest one that I’ve shared in this post, just double crochet (single crochet US).  You can change the colours as you crochet or just use the same colour throughout and embellish the baubles with beads and simple stitched stars.  I did silver stars and white opaque beads, plus some stripy ones.

They take around 30 minutes to make from start to finish so are super quick to turn round once you get the hang of crocheting on the polystyrene ball.  I am still busy making them in all different colour themes to give as gifts in my homemade hampers for Christmas.

Here is the free pattern for you to have a go to too.

Supplies

6 pack 6cm (3 inch) polystyrene (styrofoam) balls, I bought mine from The Range in the UK, in the craft section. Walmart sell similar in the US.

Stylecraft Classic Cotton in various shades one 100g ball will make many baubles. You can purchase this yarn at love Crochet click HERE .

I also used Twilleys fingerling sparkly yarn you can find this on Love Crochet click HERE This was used to sew on the stars on the white bauble as shown in the picture above and used it as one of the strips on the stripy bauble.

There are no special stitches

3.5mm hook (US size E4)

Seed beads in your chosen colour to embellish your plain bauble.

Beading needle for sewing on the seed beads

Ribbon for hanging

Tapestry needle for finishing

Pattern notes:- Make sure you pull your magic ring tight before you insert your polystyrene ball.  You may need to add an extra row dependent on how much of the fingerling yarn you use because its not as thick as the Stylecraft Cotton.  You can add the extra 2 rows after Row 12 just before you start to reduce the stitches in each row, once you’ve made one you will be able to judge when to add the extra rows.  Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.

Abbreviations (UK Terms)

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

Special Stitches

dc2tog = insert the hook in the chosen stitch, yarn over, pull through, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through both loops on the hook.

Click HERE for the chart to do the conversion of stitches to US terms.

Pattern

Start with a Magic Circle

Row 1: (Colour A) ch 1, 12 dc in the magic ring sl st in the first Dc to join (12sts)

Row 2: ch1, 2 dc in the same st, 2dc in each st around sl st in the firs dc to join (24sts)

Row 3: (change colour ) ch1, 1dc in the same st, 2dc in the next st, repeat 1dc, 2dc around (36sts)

Row 4: ch1, 1dc in the same st, 1dc in each st around (36sts)

Row 5 – 12: repeat row 4 change colour every 2 rows (add two more rows after row 12 if you are using the sparkly fingerling yarn)

Row 13 – Insert your polystyrene ball into the cup you’ve now made – ch1, 1dc in the same st, 2dctog, repeat 1dc, 2dctog around, sl st into the first dc (24sts)

Row 14: (Change colour) ch 1, 1dc in each st around (24sts)

Row 15: ch 1, dc2tog around (12 sts)

Row 16: using the same colour, ch 1 dc2tog around (6sts) cast off leaving a long tail.

Finish by weaving the last row together with tail you’ve left. Trim your yarn and thread your ribbon through the top of the bauble to hang it.

Blue Bauble Pin

 

Copyright 2017. Please note this post contains affiliate links.  Please refer to the Terms for more information.

 

 

 

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November

For those of you who follow me regularly you will have noticed a gap in my blog posts.

At the beginning of this year life threw my family a curve ball, my Dad was diagnosed with a brain tumor from which he would not recover.  He has always been a significant part of my life and has never really been unwell so the news that he was terminally ill was devastating.

My Dad had a very full life and gave his Children and Grandchildren some amazing gifts to carry through their own lives.  He had a amazing array of hobbies and interests, not least of which was photography, gardening and cooking all of which I love and share with you here.

My Dad always encouraged us to follow our dreams, helping when we got a bit stuck.  I’m not quite sure how I will will go to when now when I get a bit stuck. But what I do know is that I have two amazing sisters and a brother who I can always turn too. That in itself is a gift that will help me through the rest of my life.

My Dad’s illness came to a end peacefully on 11th November 2017, we will morn his loss for a long time but we will also carry him with us every day through the wonderful gifts he gave us.

Crochet is a wonderful healer during the last few weeks my hands have not been idle and I’ve been busy making lots of beautiful things.

 

From top left to right; a pretty hat for my friends little girl, pattern coming soon. Crochet Poppies for remembrance, I sold these to raise money for the Royal British Legion. Forever Green Scarf, it took a while to get to the end of this design and make, pattern coming soon.

Bottom row left are seaside theme Christmas appliques for my friend to add to her sea themed Christmas Wreath or for her tree she is still a little undecided, we both love the mermaid which was a challenge to make as i was following a Japanese crochet diagram. Last of all crochet baubles, this pattern will be published next week I am very excited to share these they have been a joy to make and so effective for such an easy pattern.

As well as my makes I’ve been preparing patterns for a soon to be opened Etsy store.

Thank you for reading my blog, thank you for liking what I do, I have some exciting ideas for he coming year that I can’t wait to share with you.

 

Featured

Thread Crochet Poppy Broach

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A pretty Crocheted Poppy for Remembrance Day.  Remembrance Day is a memorial day in all the commonwealth counties since the first world war to remember members of the armed forces who have lost their lives in the line of duty.  This day is celebrated in many other countries for the same purpose. Here in the UK and in Australia the poppy is the emblem for Remembrance Day and is taken from the poem “In Flanders Field” written by Canadian physician  Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae.  Remembrance Day is observed on 11 November in most countries to recall the end of hostilities of World War I on that date in 1918. Hostilities formally ended “at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month”.

My Great Grandfather was in the army in the First world war and my Grandfather was in the army, stationed in the middle east in the Second World War.  Whilst my Grandfather survived the Second World War many of his comrades did not.

The British charity, The Royal British Legion, supports families and armed forces personnel in many, many ways. There work is amazing.  Remembrance Day is their biggest annual fund raising event.  They sell poppies, among other initiatives, to raise money to continue their amazing work. Every year I make lots of poppies and sell them to help raise money for The Royal British Legion.  I can never make enough to satisfy demand and I never seem to start soon enough.

This year is the first year I’ve designed my own poppy for wearing.  It is an intermediate level crochet pattern because it’s thread crochet and uses surface crochet in the center.  Using thread can be a bit tricky when you start, its fiddly until you get used to it and surface crochet needs a little practice.

This year is no different to others I’m late designing and making poppies late for this year. Added to my lateness my father is terminally ill, he always, always observed Remembrance Day. I have many happy memories of spending a Sunday observe it with him and in more recent years, taking my children with us to do the same.  His illness is progressing rapidly as I write making it very hard to find time for crochet.   No matter how late I am or how difficult life is at the moment I can still manage a few poppies.

These are quite a quick to make poppy, I can manage one an evening with embellishments added the following day. So even if you only make a few every penny counts for your chosen charity in whichever country you are in.

 

Supplies

25g ball Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon Colour 392 Lime Juice

25g ball Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon Colour 192 Scarlet

25g ball Scheepjes Maxi Bonbon Colour 110 Jet Black

You can use any size 10 mercerized crochet cotton

Size 1.75mm crochet hook (US 5 Steel)

Black seed beads

Beading needle (Size 10 long)

Black thread

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

Pattern (UK Terms)

Note the ch at the start of each row does not count.

Start with an adjustable ring

1. Start in the black yarn, Ch 1, 12 dc in the adjustable ring sl st in the first dc to join. (12 sts)

2. Ch 1, 2 dc in each dc to the end, sl st to join changing colour to the red yarn. (24 sts)

3. In the red yarn, Ch 1, *1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st*, repeat * to * to the end. Sl st to join.  (36 sts)

Centre complete now to add the petals, 5 in total.

4. Ch 1, 6 dc, turn.

5. Ch 1, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in of the next 5 sts (12dc) turn

6. ch 2, 1 trc in the same st, 2 trc in each of the next 11 sts (23trc) 3 sl sts in the side of the last three rows. Ch 1 miss one st. Do not cast off, do not change colour.

Repeat rows 4-6 four more times to create all five petals.

Petals complete, now to finish the centre.

1. Surface crochet 24 dc’s around the row 2, dc posts. Sl st changing to the lime green yarn. Raised center formed.

2. 24 dc, in the 24 dc to complete the centre, cast off.

Finish by weaving in the ends and (optional) adding the beads to the green center row. I use bulb pins for attaching. Alternatively you could attach a broach pin.

Poppy Pin

 

 

 

Featured

Weaving in ends Tutorial No 1

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Yes that tedious chore of weaving in the ends!  I have made lots of blankets, pillows, scarfs and shawls in the last few years and have learnt very quickly that an essential skill when you crochet is weaving in your ends. Making a good job of weaving in your ends is the difference between making an average crochet masterpiece and a exceptional crochet masterpiece. Your masterpiece should stands the test of time and become a cherished item that the recipient covets for many years. Quality of finishing is therefore essential and worth every moment of your time.

I’m don’t usually agree to make things for other people that are big and take a while. This is not because I don’t want to make big beautiful crochet things for the people I know and love it’s because I suffer from Blanket Fatigue. I call it Blanket Fatigue because I get weary halfway through making a big blanket or shawl and usually divert off to something else for a week or so before I can bring myself to go to something as repetitive, usually because I just want to finish it.

In the last six months I  have only made items that are large and have taken a while so are somewhat repetitive.  I have done this on purpose as I have had to overcome my issues with Blanket Fatigue.

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I have learnt a lot about focus, patients, gauge and pattern complacency.   Pattern complacency is when you think you know the pattern in your head off by heart so you don’t need to read it, write it down or look at it.  Then after many rows of crocheting you realise that something doesn’t look quite right so you think maybe I should just check the pattern?  When you check it, after much work and many, many rows, you realise you got the patter wrong and all the hard work has to be undone and redone.

The blanket shown was a commission for a friend, the pattern is free its not one of mine, it’s by Paton’s I have shared the link below. Because this was a commission I wanted it to be as perfect as crochet can be so finishing was just a important as achieving even stitches. I’ve tried all sorts of techniques to weave in the ends but in my view this one works the best.  The ends might appear after a first wash and initial use but once they are trimmed they don’t reappear again so its worth the effort. Try it out and see the brilliant result.

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Tutorial

You are basically finishing your work by weaving in your ends in a U shape this stops the end from working its way out by holding it tightly in the stitches.  This doesn’t work for all crochet patterns, this blanket is big so its a perfect solution to finish it and make it last. Watch out for future tutorials when I will share more weaving in the ends techniques.

 

Start by stitching horizontally for a few stitches, then vertically, repeat this at least two times to make sure the end doesn’t work it’s way out.

Look out for future posts on how to weave in ends on other crochet projects.

You can follow me by selecting the contact me link in the main menu at the top of the page, fill in your details and press submit and you will receive all my blog posts the moment they are published.

For information on the pattern for this blanket and the supplies I used click here.

Blanket soft grey Pin

 

 

 

 

Featured

Crochet Blanket – Soft Grey

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In my post Crochet How to – Weave in your ends I shared pictures of this beautiful warm and comforting crocheted blanket.  In this post I’m sharing the link to the pattern, the resources I’ve used and a stitch diagram.

You can follow me by selecting the contact me link from the main menu at the top of this page, fill in your details and you will receive all my blog posts the moment they are published.

Pattern Link

This is the  link to the pattern, I used the same colours but not the same yarn, the pattern is a written pattern so I’ve included a stitch diagram below just in case that is your preference to follow a diagram. Or that you are learning to follow a stitch diagram and want a simple one to follow.

http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/hibernate-blanket.html?utm_id=5555

Supplies

All the supplies can be purchased from Love Crochet to find the page click HERE

10 balls King Cole Big Value Super Chunky – Colour Grey (0024)

4 balls King Cole Big Value Super Chunky – Colour Graphite (1545)

3 balls King Cole Big Value Super Chunky – Colour Champagne (0012)

10mm crochet hook

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Pattern Stitch diagram

Blanket soft grey stitch diagram v1

Key

Blanket soft grey diagram key

Please note this post contains affiliate links

Featured

Crochet Shawl – Waves

 

DSC_0062In October 2016  I visited the Knitting and Stitching show at Alexandra Palace in the UK. The Knitting and Stitching show is a well known UK craft show.  Oh my goodness it was huge, I haven’t been to the exhibition space at Alexandra palace before so I didn’t really know what to expect.  I have never seen so many stalls with every kind of yarn, material, sewing thread, sewing machines, tapestry kits, quilting kits and more.  Name a soft furnishing craft and it was there, totally amazing!

The trip was mind mindbogglingly overwhelming but fantastic all at the same time. There was just so much to look at it was an information overload. Whilst there were only a few crochet stands, I was a little disappointed that there weren’t more, the crochet kits on sale were brilliant and if you book a couple of weeks in advance you can join classes for a small fee. I love Irish and filet crochet using fine cotton thread and small hooks I like the complicated patterns and uniform finish. As next a step towards lace making  I visited the tatting stand manned by the Ring of Tatters whilst I was there. They had some beautifully intricate items that I could only dream of making.  I did start to learn tatting but started at the wrong time, just before Christmas didn’t give me much spare time to devote to a new hobby.  I still want to learn to Tatt but my focus remains on enhancing my crochet skills and continuing to learn and grow and to design more complex patterns  to share.

In April this year I visited the Knitting and Stitching show at Olympia it wasn’t as big as the Alexandra Palace show so it was much less overwhelming but disappointingly only one crochet stand! Following the few that were at the Alexandra palace show the previous October,  it gave me confirmation that in the UK crochet is still very niche. There was an abundance of quilters stands and some very nice sewing and tapestry stands. What I did enjoy about both shows were the novelty items and new crafts. Felting was big at Olympia, my niece purchased a spinning top to spin her own yarn from raw wool.  She made a very clever tapestry from it.  I purchased two things at the Olympia show, a neat compact pair of scissors perfect to take when you are travelling with crochet and the piece de resistance has to be this beautiful hand died silk and merino.  A 2 ply shank of pure silk and merino loveliness.IMG_2362 (2)

You can see it here adorning my dinning room chair.  This was the first time I have purchased a shank rather than a ball of wool. Next time I will definitely pay for the shank to be wound into a ball as  I did get myself in a bit of a pickle winding it to a ball. I managed to salvage most of it from the knotty mess I made.  The picture shows the beautiful colours in all their glory.

As usual I had purchased for the colour and had no idea what to make with it. At 870 yards (795 m) there were lots of options for different projects . I’ve been busy studying different crochet stitches and patterns from a variety of books and magazines. With a view to designing my own patterns.  I’ve only made myself two things in the last year both shawls that are more for autumn and winter than for summer or a light autumn scarf.  When I saw this beautiful shank of hand died silk and wool as an ideal opportunity to make something for me that was a little lighter and multipurpose.  I purchased this from a lady who hand dyes her own yarn Sheep on Mars has an etsy shop you can find it by clicking here Sheep On Mars.  I recommend having a look, the yarn isn’t too expensive and there are some really beautiful colours to choose from.

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The scarf took me longer than I expected as, as usual, I have many projects on the go and this took a back seat to completing the design and making the pretty beach huts. This scarf has traveled most of the South West of England as I travel for work it has been the perfect travel companion to distract me when I needed to clear my head.  I have been a little lost for something to keep my hands busy since I finished it.

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I found lots of patterns to use this beautiful ball of wool and started two different projects with it, one a solomons knot and one a similar repeating fan pattern but I didn’t like they way the colours showed in them so I frogged (unpicked) them both. If I’ve learnt anything from this make it’s that you need to carefully pick what you make with a variegated yarn.  They are very attractive and enticing to look at as a shank or a ball but they don’t always make something quite as pretty.   Following some further searching I came across a free Ravelry pattern that fitted the bill perfectly.  The pattern is called Lacy Feather and Fan but I think it looks like the sea waves in this pretty hand died yarn. I imagine the sun shining on the waves and giving way to all the pretty colours.  You can find the free pattern by pressing here .

The pattern is a really simple but mightily effective repeating fan, I already have some ideas about how to use it for something for next year in a much thicker yarn.

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The trick with this pattern is to keep your stitches even, tension is important.  I did undo it a few times and took it back to redo a few rows because it didn’t look quite right.

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I spent a long time blocking it too. You need some patients when pinning it out to pull as far as possible. I’m pleased that it has kept its shape  since I made and blocked it.

 

 

 

 

This pattern has inspired my own design which is underway as I type watch this space for a pretty winter scarf designed by me.

 

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Crochet Shawl Pin

 

Featured

Crochet Baby Blanket – In the Jungle

IMG_2928This was a real last minute make, I just started a new job at work and the lady sitting opposite me was pregnant. When I asked when her maternity leave started she said in two weeks! My fingers have had to start working fast to make her something with love to welcome her new baby in to the world.  She is having a little girl and her baby theme is the juggle.  I had a look around to get some baby juggle themed inspriation,  there are some real cute themes out there. Little angrim monkeys that are so sweet. Soft greens and accent oranges with leafy wallpaper patterns.  Very pretty and soothing for a new baby room.  So I get what she means by jungle theme but what am I going to make? I have bought a couple of crochet stitch books recently  to help me design more of my own projects on consulting them and after making a few samples I decided on a simple granny square for the bulk of the blanket but I needed something special for the border.

There are lots of web sites and publication that I search when I need some inspiration, pinterest is a favourite place to find visual stimulation.  For the border for this blanket I wanted something like a leaf or a jungle flower.  I went to a favourite website My Picot.  It has great stitch tutorials and patterns too and the bonus is they are all free, they just ask that you give the credit were its due when you use the patterns.  You can find it by pressing here .  The border is developed from one of the stitch patterns. There are lots more stitch patterns and other crochet patterns, you can sign up and have unlimited access and if you knit too then there are knitting patterns as well. A great website that I refer to regularly.

This is the final product and I’m really pleased to say was well received.  At the time of publishing baby has yet to arrive and is now officially late. Hang in there Mum it will be worth the wait.

Baby Blanket – In the Jungle

Supplies

4 balls Sidar Snuggly White (251) DK 50g 165m 100% Acrylic (Colour A)

1 ball Sidar Snuggly Wobble (403) 50g ball 165m 100% Acrylic (Colour B)

1 ball Sidar Snuggly pumpkin patch (458) 50g ball 165m 100% Acrylic (Colour C)

1 ball Sidar Snuggly Khaki (450) DK 50g ball 165m 100% Acrylic (Colour D)

These are all available from Love Crochet you can search for them here.

4mm crochet hook

Yarn need for sewing in the ends

Scissors

Special Stitches

Picot

1pct = 1 dc, ch 3, in the next st, sl st in the 1st ch of the ch 3, sl st in the dc

Puff Stitch

1PS = Yo, insert the hook into the st, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, insert the hook into the same st, yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on the hook), yo, insert the hook into the same st, yo, pull through all 4 loops. 1 puff stitch complete.

Pattern

Main blanket Granny Square

Start with a magic circle, or ch4  slst to join and start is the first ch on the hook.

Row 1: Ch 3 2 trc, *ch2, 3 trc*, repeat * to * twice more, pull the magic circle closed, sl st in the top of the ch 3 to join.. Turn

Row 2: ch3, 2 trc in the ch 2 space, ch 2, 3 trc, ch 1,* 3trc in the next ch 2 space, ch 2, 3 trc, ch1*, repeat  twice more end with a ch 1 sl st in the top of the ch 3 to join. Turn

Row 3: ch3, 2 trc in the first ch space, ch 1, *3trc, ch2, 3trc (first corner formed), ch1, 3 trc in the next ch space, ch 1* repeat twice more, 3 trc, ch2, 3 trc into the last ch space, ch 1 sl st in the top of the ch 3 to join. Turn

Row 4: ch3, 2trc in the first ch1 space, ch 1*3trc,ch2,3trc in the next ch2 sp, ch1 3trc in the next ch1 sp, twice, ch 1, rep from * twice more, 3trc, ch2, 3trc in the ch 2 sp, ch1, 3tr into the last ch1 sp, ch1 sl st into the top of the ch3 to join. Turn.

Continue with the pattern until the square measures approximately 31 inches. Finish the row by changing to colour B in the joining stitch.

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Border rows

Note: the corner can either be a trc, ch2, trc or it can be a pct stitch, the picture above shows the corner with a pct st.  The picture below shows a corner with a trc,ch2, trc. The pattern is for a trc,ch2, trc corner.  You may need to adjust at the corner by reduce the miss 2 sts.

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Row 1: (Colour B)  ch 1, *1 dc in the next 2 trc, 1 dc in the ch 1 space*, repeat to the first corner, *1dc,ch2, 1dc in the ch 2 sp, 1 dc, in the next 3 trc,to the next corner, repeat from *twice more, join with sl st in the starting ch 1. DO NOT TURN work the border from the right side.

Row 2: ( Colour B) Ch1, *1 dc in the next dc, 1 pct, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 trc, ch2, 1trc in the next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts, rep * to * to the first corner, 1trc, ch2, 1trc, in the corner, *ch2, skip 2 sts, 1 trc, ch2, 1trc in the next st, ch 2 skip 2 sts I pct, sl st in the base of the starting ch1, cast off.

Row 3: (Colour C) Join colour C in the first ch 2 sp between the trc, ch2, trc of Row 2.  *ch1,1ps, ch2, 1ps, ch2,1ps*. Repeat * to * to your first corner, ch2,1ps, ch2, 1ps, ch2,1ps, ch2. *1ps, ch2, 1ps, ch2,1ps, ch1* repeat * to* to your next corner. ch2,1ps, ch2, 1ps, ch2,1ps, ch2. Continue to the end of the round.  Sl st in the ch1 starting ch, case off . Do not turn.

Row 4: (Colour D) Join Colour D in the same space as the starting point for row 3.  Ch 4, 1trc in the ch2 space, *ch1, 1trc in the ch2 space*,repeat * to * to the first corner.
Ch 5 at the corner instead of the ch 1 repeat * to *, repeat three more times, sl st to join in the 3rd ch of the starting ch4.  Do not turn.

Row 5: ch3, 1 trc in the ch1 space, 1trc in the trc, 1 trc in the ch1 space, repeat * to * to the first corner.  2 trc, ch 2, 2trc in the ch 5 space, repeat * to * to the next corner, three more times. Sl st in the 3rd ch of the starting ch 3. Cast off.

Finish the blanket by weaving in the ends and hand wash and dry flat to shape it. The finished blanket without the border should measure 31 inches however you can make it as big as you want to.  Any smaller and its probably a little too small.  with the border it measures 34 inches.

 

Baby Blanket - In the jungle pin

 

Note: This page contains affiliate links.

Featured

Crochet Shawl – Pattern Review

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In the UK its the middle of the summer a perfect time to start thinking about making beautiful crocheted things for autumn and winter.  Its seems a bit crazy to be thinking about winter just now but for me personally I need the time and creative space to make things whilst I continue in my bid to learn as I go. I wrote a pattern review for a Debbie Bliss Shawl I made at the beginning of this year, it was very popular post so I’ve decided to share this one too. I hope you like it and want to embark on the pattern yourself.   I am in the middle of making a a series of crocheted shawls or wraps to extend my repertoire and to understand how I start to design more things for myself. They are in hot demand with my family and friends, there will be something on the blog later this summer for you to try out.

Back to this pattern. Stash Buster Stripes by Laura Strutt aka Made Peachy from the book Modern Crocheted Shawls and Wraps is a great pattern if you are learning to crochet and you want to progress to something slightly more complex and larger to gain more confidence.  Don’t be put off by the size once you get going it actually works up pretty fast.

Here is my finished version beautifully modeled by my sister.

I  have worn it a few times on chilly days and to a couple of outdoor evening events when its been a little cool. If you live in the UK you will know that summer evenings are not hot, except on rare occasions. It has been perfect for a late summer evening  with my husband enjoying the last of the light relaxing after a busy week at work.

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On my crochet journey I want to learn as much as possible, I don’t like to purchase patterns but after making this beautiful shawl in my own colours I had to buy this book. It’s available on Amazon at a very reasonable price.  I highly recommend it, its easy to follow and  has some very enticing images to encourage you to make something from the book.  All of the patterns have a one, two or three star rating so you can choose were to start.  This one is a two star, I found it very straightforward to make and there are lots of different styles to try out.  I have my eye on two more patterns from the book they are the Walled Garden and Woodland Colours patterns.  I really, really want to play around with the crocodile stitch the Woodland Colours pattern will certainly make me an expert in the stitch. That said they will both test my skill and staying power to make bigger crochet items as I do find that I flag halfway through a big project and get a bit bored. Trying out new stuff all the time is really important to keep my interest and motivation going and it helps my creative side think of other ideas for my own patterns.

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This pattern was brilliant for working out the stitch repetitions, growing the shawl with increases at both ends and trying out new stitches.

My advice is to watch the pattern at the start and end of each row make sure you’ve understood the increase at each end or you get a curl going on at the ends.  Once you are into the colour changes its a pain to frog (unpick) your work and redo it so check each time that its correct if you are not sure re do your stitches it will be worth it in the end.

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My other tip is to think about what type of hook you use. I use an Addi Swing crochet hook, they are a little expensive but I have had a couple of operations on my right wrist and value my hands as a result. The cost of the hook is worth it to save my wrist.  They are very comfortable to use especially for a big project, you don’t get a squished finger from holding the hook to hard.  The best thing about them are when you need to do a stitch that needs some even repeating length, because you have a short metal shaft you can do really even puff stitches as you can use the whole of the length of the shaft each time making each loop and each puff stitch the same size. They are great for solomon’s knot too. You can buy them from Lovecrochet.

Here is the link to the Made peachy Stash Buster shawl pattern – Press Here.  Made Peachy has lots of other great stuff on her website so do please go have a look. There are some amazing craft ideas and other great stuff for you.

I used the following colours all from the  Stylecraft Aran Special acrylic yarn range which can be purchased from lovecrochet.

 

Colour A – 1402 Camel 3 balls 100g 196m

Colour B – 1005 Cream  1 ball 100g 196m

Colour C – 1709 Gold 1 ball 100g 196m

Colour D – 1029 Copper 1 ball 100g 196m

Colour E – 1065 Meadow 1 ball 100g 196m

Colour F – 1027 Khaki 1 ball 100g 196m

I love the original choice of colours for this shawl and I love the colours I choose for my version. Have the courage to choose your own colours and really make this shawl your own.

 

 

Featured

Crochet Beach Huts Free Pattern

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When a very good friend asked me to crochet her something for her beach house on Isle of White we looked at lots of things I could make that would fit with her theme and that I could design and share. We settled on beach huts as epitome of an English summer at the beach.  I went on the hunt for a pattern and I had been looking for a while but hadn’t come across anything suitable.  You will know if you are a regular reader that I don’t like to pay for patterns unless they are very special. Then Coastal Crochet, a very clever lady and fellow crochet blogger, designed a coastal wall hanging for the Hobby Craft blog.  You can find the Hobby Craft blog post here, its a very cute wall hanging.  One of the motifs was a beach hut perfect to help me work out my own pattern for my friends beach house.  The beach huts I’ve made are intended to hang on her stairs which are open to the living room so I had some exact sizing to work to, to make sure they fitted in their final location.

My inspiration for the colours of the beach huts came from the Isle of White.  My friend took lots of pictures of all the beach houses she saw as she explored the different beaches on the island.

Here are some of the pictures :-

There is only one beach hut on the garland that doesn’t exist on the Isle of White, the Neapolitan beach hut featured at the beginning of this post.  Neapolitan ice cream is a favourite for my family, it always reminds me of summer and eating neapolitan ice cream sandwiches on hot day.  The chocolate, vanilla and strawberry sweetness, sticky sweet hands and the delicious vanilla and strawberry ice cream aromas mingled with chocolate.

Here are the finished beach huts on the beach on The Isle of White with the inspiration for the project in the background.

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Pattern Notes & Tips

I have set out the pattern below. At the end of the pattern I’ve given you some options for embellishing a beach hut, an ice cream, a garland and a star.  On my crochet journey I haven’t found many simple stitch diagrams. The big diagrams seem confusing and a bit scary if your trying to read them for the first time. You can overcome your fear and have a go with the simple ones I’ve included for the embellishments.

The garland string  for the whole garland (not the embellishment) is made from garden twine crocheted into a chain, attaching a beach hut at intervals so that the string hangs in between each hut. You should choose your interval to suit your chosen place to hang your garland so I haven’t included it in the pattern.

I think the beach huts work brilliantly as a garland.  Here they are hanging on my staircase waiting to be delivered to The Isle of White. It looked quite bare when they were gone, I guess I’ll have to make something to go in their place.

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Here are a few close ups so you can see the colour combinations I used and so you can see the garland embellishments.

 

Beach Huts Pattern

Supplies

Stylecraft Classique cotton double knit various colours.  As a guide one 100g ball will make five beach huts.

3.5 mm crochet hook or hook to achieve the size

Scissors and a yarn needle to finish

Steam block using spray starch to stiffen for shaping and hanging

Special Stitches and Instructions

Two  Treble Crochet Together – 2trc2tog

YO insert the hook into the next stitch YO, pull through two loops, YO, insert the hook into the next stitch, YO pull through 2 loops, YO, all three loops on the hook.  When stitching the rows that require 2trc2tog work as loosely as you can to keep your rows even.

Ch 3 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a treble crochet (trc), this will give you more even and straight edges with no gaps in the starting stitches.

Pattern

Main body of the Beach Hut

This pattern is for a plain beach hut. If you want a stripey beach hut change colour at the end of each row when adding the starting ch 3.  Use the edging colour of your choice at row 14.

Ch 23 to start

Row 1: 1 trc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 trc in each st to the end of the row (20 trc 1 ch3) turn.

Row 2: Ch3, 1 trc in the first trc, 1 trc in each stitch to the end.,  (20 trc, 1 ch3)

Row 3-9: repeat row 2.

Row 10: Ch 2 2trc2tog, 2trc2tog, 1 trc in the next 12 sts, 2trc2tog,2trc2tog, turn.

Row 11: Ch 2, 2trc2tog, 2trc2tog, trc in the next 8 sts, 2trc2tog,2trc2tog, turn.

Row 12: Ch 2, 2trc2tog,2trc2tog, trc in the next 4 sts, 2trc2tog,2trc2tog, turn.

Row 13: 2trc2tog four times, turn.

Row 14 – edging : ch1, dc in the next 4 sts, ch 1, dc in the same st to form a corner. 9 dc in the side of the trc to form the side of the roof, ch1, dc to form the corner of the roof. 19 dc in the side of the trc, ch1, 1dc in the same stitch for form a corner. 20 dc in the back of each of the ch sts in the starting row, Ch1, 1dc to form a corner.  19 dc in the side of the trcs, ch1, 1 dc to  form a corner a the base of the roof, 9dc in the side of the trc to the top, ch1, dc in the same st, sl st in the ch 1 starting stitch to join.  The main part of the hut is now complete.

Roof

Ch 33, 1trc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1trc in the next 14 sts, 2 trc in the same st (3trc in total in the same st) 1 trc in each st to the end.  Cast of leaving a long tail to attach the roof to the main body of the hut.

Door

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 trc in the 4th ch from the hook, 1 trc in each st to the end turn.

Row 2: Ch3 (does not count as a trc) 1trc in the same st, 1 trc in each st to the end turn.

Row 3 – 8: repeat Row 2

Row 9 (border): ch 1, 1dc in the next 7 sts. ch 1, 1dc in the same st to form a corner. 17 dc down the side of the door spacing evenly along the side of the trcs, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the same st to form the corner, 1 dc in the back of each of the starting chs to the end 1dc, ch1, 1 dc to form the corner,7 dc down the side of the door spacing evenly along the side of the trcs, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the same st to form the corner. Sl st in to the starting ch to finish. Cast off leaving a long tail to attach the door to the main body of the hut.

Finishing

To make up your beach hut stitch your door from the centre bottom of the main body of the beach hut.  Stitch the roof along the edge of the top of the beach hut, you will have a little bit of roof overhanging the roof edge on the main body of the beach hut.  Make certain that the centre of the roof is in the centre top so the beach hut hangs centrally on your garland.

These three parts stitched together form a basic Hut.

Embellishments

Ice cream cone

The pattern starts with the cone so use your cone colour first.

Ch 7 to start,

Row 1: 1 trc in the 4th ch from the hook, 3 ch counts as first trc, 1htc, 1dc, 1slst, turn 3 sl sts into the back of the starting ch, sl st to change colour to the colour of ice cream you want to use.

Row 2: Turn your so the ch 3 starting sts of the cone are upper most. Ch1, miss one st 1 st, 3 trc in the same st, sl st into the last st, cast off.

Ice cream cone stitch diagram

Bunting

Row 1: Ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, dc, trc, cast off (one triangle created) repeat twice more, three triangles in total. Weave in the ends before you make up the bunting with row 2.

Row 2: Ch 4, attach your first triangle with 4 dc, ch2, attach the next triangle with 4 dc, ch 2, attach the next triangle with 4 dc, ch 4 cast off.  Weave in the ends.

Beach Huts bunting diagram

Star

Row 1: Start with a magic loop, ch 3 (counts as first trc), 9 trc in magic loop. Pull to tighten, sl st to join (10 trc in total).

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in same space, (trc, dtrc, ch 1, dtrc, trc) all in next st, *dc in next st, (trc, dtrc, ch 1, dtrc, trc) in next stitch, repeat from * 3 times, sl st to starting dc. Finish off, weave in ends (5 dc, 5 star points).

Star pattern diagram

I would love to see your finished beach huts, please post them on my facebook page, you can find me @amandajonescrochet or click the facebook logo on this page.

If you find any pattern errors please, please message me via the contact page and I will correct the errors.  A download of this pattern will be available very soon via etsy.

Beach Huts Pin

Featured

V-Stitch Baby Blanket Pattern

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This is a great baby blanket pattern, its easy and quick.  If your just learning to crochet you shouldn’t be daunted by this one.  You can make your blanket in any colour combination that works for you, or you can use just one colour. I have included the instructions for colour changing you can ignore them if you’ve chosen to make this in one colour.

I’ve been working hard to design my own patterns and seeing how I get on with more complicated patterns.  So when a lady I work with announced her pregnancy I couldn’t resist a pretty hat and blanket.  I chatted with her about her nursery colours and no surprise she has decorated in grey and mustard. Grey is very fashionable in the UK for babies just now and mustard is one of my favourite colours, so bright and warm. She is a modern, fashionable young lady so I new granny squares wouldn’t suit.  She has decided on a surprise so doesn’t know what she’s having, this is what I made…..

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There are many,many opportunities for changing the colours to suit the person you are making this for.  I do love these colours though, I think they work really well.

You can find the hat pattern here – Lacy Crochet  I added a picot to the last row so it matches the blanket edging. I haven’t quite got my head around the increases for a hat yet.

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V-Stitch Baby Blanket

Supplies

1 ball King Cole Pricewise Double Knit, Oyster (145), 100g, 282m – Colour A

1 ball King Cole Pricewise Double Knit, White (001) 100g, 282m – Colour B

1 ball King Cole Pricewise Double Knit, Mustard (1740), 100g 282m – Colour C

4mm hook

Yarn needle

Scissors

Special Stitches

Picot – dc,ch 2 insert hook into the first ch of the ch 2, yo, pull through all loops on hook

V-Stitch – 1 trc, ch 1 , 1 trc in the same stitch

Pattern

Foundation row – Chain  102

Row 1 – (Colour A) 1 trc, “miss one stitch, v-stitch in the next stitch”, repeat to the end of the row finishing with 1trc in the last stitch.

Row 2 –  1 trc in the first st of row one, v-stitch in the chain 1 space of the first v-stitch in row 1, repeat to the end of the row, 1trc in the last st of row one.

Row 3-5 – repeat row 2.

Row 6 – (Colour B) 1 trc, “miss one stitch, v-stitch in the next stitch”, repeat to the end of the row finishing with 1trc in the last stitch.

Row 7 – (Colour C) 1 trc, “miss one stitch, v-stitch in the next stitch”, repeat to the end of the row finishing with 1trc in the last stitch.

Row 8 – repeat Row 7

Row 9 – repeat Row 6

Repeat Row 1 to 9 7 times – 72 rows

Row 73 – 77 Repeat rows 1 – 5

Border

Row 1 – (continue in colour A) *dc in each st to the corner, dc, ch 2, dc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 2 – htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 3 – htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 4 – (Colour B) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 5 – (Colour C) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 6 – repeat Row 4.

Rows 7 & 8 (Colour A) htc in each* st to the corner, htc, ch1, htc*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join ch 1.

Row 9 (Colour B) picot in the first stitch, , *miss one st, picot* repeat * to * to the first corner, picot twice in the ch 2 of the last row,  picot in the next st, * picot, miss one st, picot*, repeat * to * to the end using the first corner pattern for the next three corners. sl st to join cast off.

Finish by weaving in the ends and steam blocking after washing and drying.

Stitch Diagram Part A Blanket

 

* see note below

Vstitch diagram v1

Stitch Diagram Part B Border

vstitch baby blanket border legend v4

*See note below

 

 

 

vstitch baby blanket border v4

 

*Note – due to the software used for the stitch diagrams the legends are in American Terms see Crochet Terms UK to US conversion for translation to English Terms

Baby Blanket v2 pin

 

 

 

Featured

Crochet Terms UK to US conversion

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Confused ? I was ! When I rediscovered crochet I also discovered that there are two different types of instructions UK terms and US terms very confusing when you are starting out. It took me a while to be able to read both types of instructions but now, after much practice, I’ve worked it out and don’t really think about it.  I do still make mistakes and have to unpick (frog) my work but I’ve had no major disasters. Understanding the difference between both has also helped me learn how to read crochet diagrams, art in themselves I now find them easier to follow than a written pattern. When I restarted crocheting I had never seem a symbol chart so when I found some I was just scarred and discarded them as too much for my brain to interpret.

How did I overcome my stitch terror? I did lots of internet research to find a guide to all the confusing dc, sc, trc, htc instructions and spent a lot of time matching the guides to the patterns.

My first crochet symbol chart for the crochet baby blanket post. Its not perfect but if I can do it so can you.

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If you search the internet for Crochet symbols you will find an amazing array of support out there, there are lots and lots of You Tube videos on how to create stitches some are helpful, some not so.  Watch out for a future post on the You Tube videos I found helpful.

What I would really love is a master class that I can go to to either learn a new crochet stitch or get help with a pattern I’m struggling with. You Tube can sometimes help but nothing beats talking to someone who can show you and teach you.  Unfortunately where I live there are no classes and Knit and Natter is when I’m at work so I can’t go.

I have added this page to help you convert my UK term patterns to US terms.  Once you’ve had a go a few times you will get the hang of it I promise.  Its not as hard as it seems. So be confident if you find a pattern written in terms you are not familiar with, use this guide and have a go.

I cannot take any credit for this guide, I could have made my own but time and knowing this is easy to find on the internet made me think I should just share the hard work someone else has already put in and give them the credit for their hard work.  Dabbles & Babbles published the chart below back in 2014.  Click here Crochet chart for a downloadable PDF, please also take the time to have a look around Dabbles & Babbles wed site there are some great crochet patterns and other craft activities for you to try.

I’ve been using this chart and have shared it on many occasions with other newbie crocheters so I am very confident it will help you.  Be confident, if you find a pattern written in terms you are not familiar with, use this guide and have a go.

Crochet Chart Symbols

Here is a link to a great video by Knit Picks to show you how to read patterns too, Knit Picks.

 

 

 

Featured

Crochet Spring Shawl

 

I am constantly drawn to wraps and shawls to make, I enjoy making them, they have purpose and above all I love to wear them.  Christmas, starting my own blog and a couple of commissions has stopped me making for me.  This project has been in the queue for six months. I’m excited to finally have made this Crochet Spring Shawl designed by Debbie Bliss.

I generally don’t pay for patterns, I am always searching for free ones, so for me to buy a pattern book means I like it alot.  This pattern is an exception to my general no pay rule, apart from the odd odd crochet magazine or two of course. When I stumbled across this Debbie Bliss collection I just couldn’t resist it. After much searching I found a website to buy it from, it was the only website and the last one in stock at a price I was prepared to pay, it was published back in 2012 so is a couple of years old.  The Debbie Bliss website doesn’t offer the sale of her patterns which is a little frustrating but understandable. This pattern book will now take pride of place in my pattern library and I will  covet the eleven designs it contains.  I plan to use some of the other patterns as gifts for my nieces as the style of the patterns are so right for them.   I may even tackle the dress you can see on the front cover. This will test my adherence to gauge and adjusting a pattern for sizing and I really like a pretty top for me. Another challenge and one for the project queue.

The shawl was relatively quick to  make up, its difficult to pin point how long because  I had a few projects on the go and I only make in the evenings. I did intersperse making it with researching and practicing flowers for mothers day .  If I had to estimate how long it would take it would be four to five days if you are at home or on holiday and are making this at your leisure.  I’m really pleased with the outcome, the pictures show you lots of ways to wear this pretty shawl.  The pattern was  easy to follow as it repeats until you get the desired length.

Yarn

The yarn I used is Drops Puna a beautiful 100% alpaca, its so soft and warm.  In total I used 8 x 50g balls with about 2/3rds left of the eight ball.  It is yarn group B see Drops website for the description.  Puna  is a light double knit/ worsted weight yarn which is slightly heavier than the Debbie Bliss Rialto recommended for the pattern.  The Rialto is described as a double knit too but isn’t the same type of wool.  I am really please with the outcome it has worked really well.

Hooks

I use a 4mm Addi Swing crochet hook, I have had two operations on my right wrist so using an ergonomically designed hook is very important for me. they are expensive but for me they are worth it. They are very comfortable to use, I don’t get crochet fingers when I use them.  You can buy them from Woolwarehouse ,  Love Crochet or Amazon.

Finishing

I didn’t block the shawl as the weight of the shawls pulls the pattern out nicely.  I just gave it a hand wash with a hand wash liquid, no fabric conditioner and laid it flat to dry.

Future Projects

I can see using this pattern repeat for many shawls and scarfs as its easy to set out in different sizes for a scarf rather than a shawl and easy to work out how to use it with different size yarn and hooks.

What this pattern has also encouraged me to do is design my own wrap, I am researching different stitches and trying out some other patterns as practice before I settle on my own design to try.

I broke the lens on my digital SLR camera taking these pictures, I dropped it because I was focusing too much on arranging the shawl on the manikin. I have now replaced it so there will still be pictures but a lesson learnt that my camera is a very important item in my life.

 

Featured

Crochet Butterfly – Free pattern

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To go with the Easter eggs I wanted something bright and pretty so I’ve made some butterflies.  They started life as a flower pattern but soon became butterflies when I accidentally folded the flower in half.  Not only are the sweet enough to hang on the branches with the eggs they are a great addition to a wrapped gift as a tag or as an applique on a blanket, child’s cardigan or hat.

Can you spot my mistake in some not all of the butterflies??

Butterfly Crochet Pattern

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Supplies 

Assorted 4ply cotton. I used Schjeepes Catona 4 ply.

2mm hook

scissors

Yarn needle

Fishing line to hang

Special Instructions 

Colours (as in the picture above), A= cream B=pale pink C= pink D= yellow

Pattern 

Butterfly body

Round 1: Colour A, start with a magic circle ch5 (1tc, 2ch), *3tr, 2ch in the magic circle* repeat * to* twice more, 1 tr. Do not sl st to join pull the magic circle closed.

Round 2: Change to colour B in 3 ch of the row 1 ch 5. Ch3 (1tr) 2tr, ch2, 3tr all in the first ch2 space. Miss  3 sts, 3tr, ch2 3 tr in the next ch 2 space, repeat to the end, end with 3tr,ch2,3tr in the last ch 3 space.

Round 3: In the 3ch of row 1 join colour c, sl st twice in the side of the row 2 ch 3, sl st in the top of the row 2 starting tr,* 8 tr in the ch2 space of row 2, miss 3 st, 1 dc in the space between the row 2 tr groups* repeat from * to * three times.  (4 x8tr groups), sl st in the top of the last tr of row 2, 2 sl st in the side of the last tr of row 2 cast off.

Antenna

Round 1: Antenna top. Colour D, Ch 13 cast off weave in the ends to the middle of the ch 13 leave the ends.

Round 2: Antenna body. Miss two 8 tr clusters, cast on with colour D, you are going to surface chain up the middle of the butterfly starting at the bottom of the butterfly.  Insert the hook in the base of the butterfly and yarn over pull through the butterfly body, repeat six times until you almost reach the top of the butterfly.  Sl st through the middle of the antenna from round 1 and through the top of the butterfly. Close with 1 further sl st, cast off.

Finishing:  weave in your ends to finish, if your butterfly has curled up then steam press it to flatten it.  You can add a hanging loop using one of your colours I used fishing line so the butterflies look as if they are flying around the branches.

Butterfly pattern

Featured

Crochet Easter Eggs

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Easter is a special time of year, spring has arrived, new beginnings are showing every were you look.  When I started searching for free crochet patterns for small Easter gifts last year I came across a few but not a many, pretty lacy crocheted egg patterns. I wasn’t brave enough to have a go at them last year as they looked so complicated so I have waited a whole year to make them.  I love crocheting with thread its so fine and delicate the patterns can be complicated but the eggs are small so not too tricky to work out. They have been easier than I thought they would be so don’t be afraid to have a go.

I’ve been researching  all the pretty things you can crochet that have an Easter theme. Crochet amigurumi are  very popular for Easter and there are lots of free patterns for covering small chocolate eggs. Last year I made a cute bunny and a chick. These small crochet items are ideal if you are looking for something to crochet for a charity and they are great stash busters.  They are quick and easy to produce and very effective.   There are lots of free patterns for pretty crochet garlands to make if you search the crochet websites, Ravelry and pinterest have an unending supply. It’s a fabulous resource for ideas and patterns. The crochet flowers blog post has a link to two pretty daisy patterns, they both make very pretty garlands that could adorn a room for the Easter holidays.

Here are the eggs that I’ve been busy making;

Easter Egg pattern

This Easter is probably the first were I haven’t bough out the supermarkets stock of chocolate eggs.  The children are all getting older so Easter eggs are not top of their list of priorities.  Pretty delicate eggs and appliques can take over for now.

I tried all different eggs to crochet around, wooden ones are hard to crochet around as they are slippery, real eggs are a pain to blow the insides out of and if you are a little to rough they crush to easily.  I found polystyrene craft eggs at our local, The Range store, (uk home, garden and leisure retailer).  Walmart will no doubt sell something similar in the US.  These are perfect for crocheting around as they don’t slip and don’t break if you hold them too tight and above all they hang beautifully from a branch because they are light.  I’ve added some crocheted butterflies to my tree.  I made up the pattern from a flower pattern. I will share the butterfly pattern next week.

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The patterns I have found for lacy eggs have been mostly in other languages so I’ve had to rely on google translate, which isn’t great on the best of days and, guessing how to make them. Having practiced them a few times I’ve made my own pattern, so you can make an egg too without the dodgy translation and guesswork.

Crocheted Easter Egg Pattern

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Supplies

DMC Cebelia No 30 crochet cotton or any size 10 crochet cotton, I used colour 799.

1mm crochet hook, or hook size to match the thread and egg size.

Assorted polystyrene eggs, the egg in the picture is a 2.5 inches, the pattern fits this size egg

Pattern

Round 1: Ch 8 sl st to join.

Round 2: ch3 ( 1st tr), 2tr, 2ch, 3 tr, 2ch, *3tr,2ch, 3tr, 2ch, rep from * until you have 8 groups of 3tr separated by 2ch. Join with a ss into the top of the 3ch at the start of the round.

Round 3: ch3 (1st tr)2 tr, 2ch, 3 tr, into that ch.sp. then work 3tr, 2ch, 3tr into each ch sp in the round, join with a ss into top of 3ch. (Eight 3tr,2ch,3 tr groups)

Round 4: ch3 (1st tr),  7 tr.  SS into space between tr group. *Work 8tr into next ch sp, ss into space between group rep from * to complete round.  Join with a ss going through the space between the groups and the top of the starting ch at the same time.

Round 5: Sl st in the next 4 st’s,  ch11 (1 tr, 8 ch), 1 tr in the 4th tr of the 8tr cluster, *ch8, 1 tr in the 4th tr of the 8tr cluster* repeat * to * to the end sl st in the 3 ch of the starting ch 11.

Round 6: 2 dc in the next st, *8 dc in the 8ch space, 2 dc in the top of the tr* repeat * to * to the end, sl st to join.

Round 7: ch3 (1dc, 2 ch) miss 2 sts, *1 dc, ch2, miss 2 sts*, repeat * to * to the end, sl st in the 2 ch of the starting ch 3 to join.

Round 8: ch5, (1hdc, 2 ch) miss 2 sts, *1 hdc in the next dc, ch2, miss 2 sts*, repeat * to * to the end sl st in the 3 ch of the starting ch 5 to join.

Round 9: If your egg is smaller than 2.5 inch try, 8 ch to reduce the size.  Ch 10, miss 6 sts, 1 dc in the top of the next hdc, *ch 10, miss 6 sts, 1 dc in the top of the next hdc*

Round 10: This is the closing round when you get about half way place your egg in the basket you will have created you can move the egg around once you are finished to place it correctly for the pattern.  Ch4, 1 dc in the 10ch space *ch 2, 1dc in the ch10 space* repeat to the end, don’t forget to insert your egg halfway round.  Sl st in the first dc to close.

Finishing: cast off weave in your ends and insert a hanging loop at the top of your egg.

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Happy Easter enjoy the holidays xx

 

 

 

 

Featured

Crochet Doilies

 

dsc_0857-2Crochet Doilies are my exploration of something I really enjoy, being so engrossed in a a pattern that it feels like I’m getting lost in it, shutting out the world to make something beautiful is my idea of heaven.
My inspiration for Crochet Doilies comes unexpectedly, from my Grandmother ‘Nanny’. When I started my crochet journey and began to produce lots of beautiful things my Mum gave me a piece of crochet my grandmother madedsc_0999 a beautiful delicate pomander. I had never seen it and had no idea my Mum even had it or that my Nan did this type of crochet. All I remember of the crocheted pieces Nanny made where the beautiful crochet baby blankets she made for each expectant grandchild.  I couldn’t understand why I was drawn to thread crochet but this explained it, it’s in my blood I’m meant to do it.

 

I bought this book, Simple Crochet by Sara Sinaguglia.dsc_0994
You can buy it on Amazon.  It has lots of little projects for different skill ranges for me to practice my craft. I started with the apple cosy you can see on the front page and then moved swiftly on to a small crochet coaster. To start with I made it in a larger thread so it’s more of a jug coaster than a cup coaster. My mum is the recipient, I never took a photo but it was a thank you for sharing my Nan’s pomander.

Crochet Coaster
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This is the second one I made in the correct size thread and using the right hook size. It’s been well used on my coffee table so please excuse the stain. It’s been laundered but tea and coffee are hard to shift on something so delicate. The stitches are very simple, its a really good project if you’ve never crocheted with cotton thread before.

I’ve researched Crochet Dollies and have a stack of projects waiting to be started. Since the simple coasters I’ve made two more beautiful things.

 

This one  I made for a very close friend who married last year. A Nancy Hearne free pattern, she also sells patterns on Craftsy.

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My friends husband is of Irish decent and on researching traditional Irish wedding gifts, Irish lace is prominent for wishing good luck. I found the pattern on Ravelry but Nancy Hearne has a webesite, it’s a bit clunky to navigate but once you worked it out there is a treasure trove of lacy patterns. I want to make lots of her beautiful Crochet Doilies.
I’ve made an ‘easy to travel’ Crochet Doily. This one is from Simple Crochet again and is one of the many Christmas gifts I hooked last year.

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I called it ‘easy to travel’ as it needed to fly to get to my sister in Australia. A jug cover with hearts perfect for the hot climate. I hadn’t quite anticipated starting the blog when I took this picture so it could have been better not a great feast for the eyes in the picture, but it is beautiful in reality.

 

 

This project needed was a challenge for me, thread crochet with beads is very fiddly and you need good lighting as the stitches are extra small. I am very pleased with the outcome it was a real achievement to not get the thread all knotted up with all those beads attached to it.

So what’s next for thread crochet? I’m mulling over two options, this one from Simple Crochet, Sara Sinaguglia writes easy to follow patterns and I’ve admired this pattern since I first bought the book.

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The other option is inspired by my love of gardening. These are two beautiful Dahlia’s from my garden last summer.


After some web research and looking through some of my favourite blog sites, the other option is this one on the US Red Heart web site.

This Crochet Dollie will be for my Mum she wants one for her table and she loves Dahlias as much as I do. So I’m erring towards some pretty spring colours.

 

Whichever pattern I choose watch out for a future blog post on the Crochet Doily journey.

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Mothers Day Crochet Flowers

Happy Mothers Day Mum, with all my love xx

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Last year I had only been crocheting for a short while.  With mothers day looming it was the perfect opportunity to make something pretty for both my mum and my mother-in-law.

What to make? It had to be a flower for mothers day.  I found this great daffodil pattern on Attic 24’s web page.  I also found a book mark on Ravelry , I just exchanged the rose on top for the daffodil.  This was the result, they went down very well and are still being used as book marks today.  After I gave it to my Mum she asked me to get her a box frame to put it in.  I insisted she used it as intended as a book mark but promised to make her a pretty picture of crochet flowers.

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I have been exploring flowers and colours to decide on what I should make.  Last summer I was looking for flower patterns and came across an amazing book of crochet flowers by Claudia Giardina or Creativity Claudia.  You can find her on Ravelry.  Her patterns are amazing, and what a wonderful gift to give, a flower that never fades.  You do have to pay for the book if you want the whole thing.  Having purchased it myself it is worth every penny. As soon as I received it I really wanted to find an excuse to make a flower arrangement, the flowers and leaves are wired which make them stand beautifully.

As well as the Gerber daisy in the picture frame,  I’ve made these from it so far :-

As well as wired flowers I have researched lots of other flowers too.  My friend at work wanted a daisy broach, I found quite a few patterns but needed something small most of the others I found were too big for a broach or wouldn’t convert very well to smaller thread and a smaller hook.  I tried these two:-

They are both free patterns that are easy to follow and you can find them at Yellow Pink and Sparkley, for the more solid daisy on the right.  The pattern is for bunting, I just used 4ply cotton and 2mm hook to make it smaller.  The centre is very robust and will hold a pin really well. The other one, on the left, you can find at Love Crochet, crochet club blog . Another daisy for bunting but it downsized really well by using 4ply cotton and a 2mm hook. Equally it will look fabulous as bunting.  My friend is very pleased with her daisy broach.

To honour the promise to my Mum’s I’ve been busy taking pictures of flowers and either finding patterns or recreating them myself.  The attic24 daffodil was downsized, the gerber daisy came from Creativityclaudias book of flowers,the daisy is the one from love crochet blog but I couldn’t find a pattern for a primrose so I made one up.

You may not have time to make a whole picture for your Mum but you will have time to make this flower it’s quick easy and effective.  You will be surprised by the pleasure it brings the recipient.  Here it is for you to try:-

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Primrose Crochet Pattern

Supplies

4ply cotton yarn, various colours. minimum 15g. I used Scheepjes Catona, it comes in so many pretty colours and you can buy it in 50g balls.  A 50g ball will make lots of primroses.

2mm hook

Yarn needle

scissors

Pattern

Start with a magic circle , (or chain 4 sl st to join)

Row 1: (in the ch4 loop) ch2, 6 dc sl st in the first st to close, pull the magic circle closed.

Row 2: 2dc in each dc sl st in the first st cast off.

Row 3. attach your new colour in any dc, ch 1 dc in the same st, *htc, trc, dtrc, ch 1, dtrc, trc, htc in the same st, dc in the next dc* repeat to the end you should have six petals in total.  Join with a sl st in the first dc, cast off.

Finish: Weave in the yarn ends and trim.

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My First Commission – Crochet Afghan

dsc_1132 I started my first proper commission in early January 2017. A pretty lacy but chunky sofa afghan. I wanted to make something professionally for someone to see how long it would take me, how much to charge and what making something that I didn’t choose to make would do for my motivation and interest. I’m not a great lover of making afghans I get what I call “blanket fatigue” when I’m half way through.  Then I go into “blanket mourning” when I’m finished.  I always feel I’ve lost something when I’ve finished a big project, I get an emptiness that must be filled by something new to make. This feeling of mourning is usually counteracted by having the item with me to look at.  So making an afghan to give away is a new thing for me and in hindsight I really enjoyed it.

My friend is the lucky recipient of the afghan blanket commission.  We spent some time talking about where and what she wanted to use it for.  She took some pictures of a very pretty rug she had just bought, we discussed colour and I checked out what I thought would meet the brief.

I’ve been really lucky that the commission has worked so brilliantly.  I put this down to a strong understanding of my friend and her likes and dislikes.  In future I’d like to put together a mood board to check I’ve got the colour, feel and pattern right for the client setting out the inspiration before I start.

When we first discussed an afghan for her lounge we started with some items I’ve already made. My friend really liked the shawl I made last year, shown above, a triumph for me as it was my first complicated pattern.  I took my time with it so it took a while but the result has been beautiful and has stood up to a lot of wear over the last few months. I’ve been using it as a scarf rather than a shawl. This shawl project was a real turning point for me, it helped me to realise that I am a very good crocheter and was the trigger to start this blog to record what I learn as I make new things.

dsc_1137 My shawl is similar in style to her beautiful rug, shown above. Since finishing the afghan I want to find a pretty dollie pattern for a side table for her with colours to compliment her pretty cushions. The pattern looks like pineapples to me so I’m researching pineapple thread crochet patterns now.

Making a blanket is an emotional journey, I started this one with the most amazing enthusiasm and made the first few squares relatively quickly.  It wasn’t the only project I was working on at the time, the crochet hearts where a also a being created. I have found that something quick in between something that’s more time consuming works really well to keep my interest and motivation levels high. It counteracts the”Blanket Fatigue”, as mentioned earlier, when I am half way through a big project its hard to see the end and my enthusiasm wanes so doing an alternative small project really helps.

For this project I bought the most essential crochet accessory, a granny blocking board.  It has totally transformed the quality of my work.  It made the end result so much more professional,  I recommend investing in one for anything you make from granny squares. The test squares for my next project are already perching on the block for better shape. You can see the before and after results above.

Yarn, Pattern and Hooks

For this blanket I used Drops Alpaca Eskimo Uni colour in shade 52, light blue grey, super chunky.  In total I used 23 balls and crocheted with a size 8mm addi swing hook.  All purchased from Woolwarehouse.  The pattern is a Drops Designs free pattern called Winter Crystal.  Drops website and patterns are excellent there are even video tutorials if you get stuck or if there is a new stitch you haven’t tried before. I really liked the big wool its so quick to make.  You could use this afghan as a bed throw as below, I’ve shown you below what it might look like.  I can see it in all sorts of colours.   This pattern is a beautiful way to bring crochet up to date, it shows a different perspective on what’s possible.

 

Future Commissions

If you are interested in a paid for commission, I am happy to make something for you.  I don’t yet have an online shop so please contact me via the Contact page on the main menu bar of this page.

 

 

Featured

Crochet Baby Blanket

 

This post is dedicated to baby Albert who arrived on 16th February 2017.

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I’ve been keen on making a baby blanket for ages but haven’t had a baby to crochet for as most of my family now have teenagers and they aren’t quite ready for babies yet.  So when a young lady I work with announced her news I took the opportunity to make a crochet baby blanket.

The pattern I’ve chosen isn’t for a baby blanket it was for an Afghan much bigger than I needed.  I like all the baby blankets I’ve seen, however I wanted a pattern that was lacy and delicate but also washable and wouldn’t be itchy for such new and delicate skin.  I have a bit of a granny square obsession at the moment so it also needed to satisfy the slight OCD I have about crocheting in squares. I searched my favourite visual search engine, Pinterest and have set up a board for all types of blankets including baby blankets.   After much deliberating I chose this one.

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The patter is a Red Heats free pattern  that I found searching on Ravelry.  The pattern is for Aran weight yarn but I didn’t need it to be that big so I used a double knit weight acrylic yarn and used a smaller hook.

I wanted some neutral colours that were warm. I didn’t know if it would be a boy or a girl but I didn’t want to use the traditional lemon or pale green and I wanted the blanket to be modern rather than traditional.  I scanned some of the baby websites to see what the latest trends are and settled on grey the ‘in’ colour for baby accessories at the moment.

The pattern is described as a beginners pattern so I naturally assumed it would be quite swift to produce.  This has not been the case.  Some of the intermediate patterns have been easier to follow!  I made two mistakes with this pattern.  If you want to try this pattern and are new to crochet don’t be put off by me, have a go but be prepared for the joining challenge, this was my first mistake. I didn’t take enough time and attention on getting it right by working out what the pattern actually said.  A diagram would be immensely helpful with this pattern. If I ever manage to find the time I will draw and then reproduce this pattern.

My second mistake was not following the instructions for how to join the squares. It is set out on the back of the pattern but I decided to start with the center four squares.  This led to some very interesting options for joining squares that were quite brain taxing. More especially for me because I crochet in the evening usually after a busy day at work.  I’ve now, finally, got the technique for joining the squares but I’m still not convinced its how the pattern tells you to do it.

For now I recommend colour coding the pattern with some different coloured highlighters pens so you can work out each instruction on how to join.

I presented the blanket with a cute hat. I can only include a link to the blog page for Lacy Crochet as instructed I’m not allowed to do anything further with it. It’s so cute and now Albert has finally arrived I can crochet one in an appropriate colour.  The hat is so tiny its so cute.

 

I made up the boarder based on the pattern I’d been following, I have mastered drawing a straight pattern on graph paper.  My drawing still needs some work so I’ve included the written border pattern below the picture. Please do let me know if you try it and it doesn’t work.  I do hate a pattern that has mistakes.

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Boarder pattern for baby blanket

Row 1 – Join in any stitch, dc in each st to the first corner, *dc2, ch2, dc2, dc in each stitch to the the next corner*, repeat * to *, sl st to join.

Row 2 – ch3, trc in each dc to the first corner, *trc2, ch2, trc2, trc in each dc to the next corner*, repeat * to *, sl st to join.

Row 3 – dc in the same st as joined, *ch 3 miss 2 dc, dc in the next trc*, repeat * to *to the first corner, dc in the ch2 space, ch3 dc in the same ch2 space, dc in the next trc,* ch 3 miss 2 dc, dc in the next trc* repeat * to * to the next corner, sl st to join.

Row 4 – sl st to the ch3 space, *dc ch2 dc ch2* in the next ch3 space, repeat * to * to the first corner, *dc ch4 dc* in the ch3 corner space, ch 2 *dc ch2 dc ch2 in the next ch 3 space* repeat to the end sl st to join and cast off.

Welcome to the world baby Albert I wish a long, happy, healthy, successful life whatever that maybe.

 

Featured

Five Crochet Heart patterns

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The wall hanging hearts in the Crochet Hearts  blog post traveled to the beach.  Whilst I loved them in my lounge they fit perfectly at the beach. They have a new home on the Isle of White and  I now have a pending commission for beach huts to go with them.

Crochet has soothed me this month and helped me think of happier times as winter is slowly coming to an end.  It has helped to clear my mind and keep me peaceful. I hope you get pleasure from it too. Following the interest in my simple Hearts Pattern, thank you everyone who viewed it, I thought you might like me to share some of the heart patterns I tried whilst researching for these valentine projects.

So here goes, my favourite first :-

Crochet Millan  the first pattern I found and the one I used for my own garland and the beach hearts wall hanging.

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Craftaholics Anonymous a really cute simple heart pattern to try. There are some great pictures to help you get the heart right. This is a great next project if you tried the simple crochet hearts pattern. I plan to give this one away as a key ring.

 

 

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Sandra – Cherry hearts – I love this blog so colourful, a great stitch library and some easy patterns if you are learning.  I bought way to much yarn to add to my stash after reading Cherries blog her pictures are a feast for the eyes. I want to make these hearts in to cup coasters by joining them together.

 

 

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Annoo’s crochet world  I didn’t follow Annoo’s pattern exactly, I did a combination of Cherries heart and turned it into a square with help from Annoo’s pattern.  I can see a heart blanket if time ever allows me to make it.

 

 

 

 

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Last but not least Irish lace, the website isn’t as visually pleasing but this heart diagram was very easy to follow and came out really well.

 

 

 

 

 

I hope you enjoy trying these pretty heart patterns as much as I have and that you have a very special Valentine to share them with.

Happy Valentines Day 

 

 

 

 

 

Featured

Crochet Heart Pattern

Crochet Heart Pattern – an easy crochet pattern perfect for a beginner

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This is a simple but effective pattern that even the most novice of crocheters can tackle. This is dedicated to two special little girls who are learning to crochet, Bethany and Lucie.

If you prefer a pattern that is advert free that you can keep forever take a look in my shop for this and other crochet patterns.

Supplies

4 or 5 mm crochet hook

DK yarn, colour of your choice, I used a cotton dk by Stylecraft

Yarn needle and scissors to finish

Abbreviations (English terms)

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

htr = half treble crochet

Pattern

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Row 1: Start with a slip knot ch 7

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Row 2: Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook dc in each stitch (6 dc)

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Row 3: Turn ch 1, dc in the same stitch, dc in each dc to the end (6dc)

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Row 4: Turn ch 1, dc in the same stitch, dc in each dc to the end (6dc)

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Row 5: Turn ch 1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches (3 dc)

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Row 6: Turn ch 1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches (3 dc)

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Row 7: Turn ch 1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches (3 dc)